A mere gander reveals that western wear lies at the core of men’s fashion in 2024.
Pharrell Williams has the look by its horns in Louis Vuitton’s FW24 collection.
Jacques Marie Mage tries their hand at frontier visuals with bronco and thunderbird motifs embellished with turquoise stones.
And while luxury brands seek to capitalize on the trend, true heritage labels in the space such as Luccese, Levi’s, and Stetson have stood firm as a fence post through the trend cycles—some of which have since the dawn of the steam engine.
Western fashion experiences a surge in popularity every decade, but it remains an enduring style in menswear. Unlike city dwellers who constantly chase new trends, it’s the everyday way of dressing for many areas west of the Mississippi.
Some rely on the ruggedized fabrics that evolved alongside the ranchers who popularized western garments. Others appreciate the way high-waisted denim and cropped jackets compliment the male figure.
Some consider western wear to be the only “true” fashion export of the United States. The influence of Mexican, Native American, and European settler culture makes the genre uniquely rich in history and appearance. Ultimately, there just aren’t that many styles that mix tradition, aesthetics, and function the way western wear does, and that’s why it isn’t going anywhere.
Remove the luxury brands cashing in the action and the legacy labels who’ve defined it. Who’s blazing new trails in western fashion with their unique vision?
If you’re looking to corral some western excellence into your wardrobe, I’m set in my boots that these five brands are it.
Imogene + Willie
It all started with two models of denim, one for the maidens and one for the cowboys.
Since their founding in 2009, Imogene + Willie has grown into a cult favorite for western wear that is both casual and elevated. The brand operates two retail locations in the two capitals of frontier style: Austin and Nashville.
Their denim is true to western sensibilities—heavy, durable, with a fit relaxed enough to drape nicely over a boot’s shaft. Imogene + Willie also presents a wide range of knits, jackets, accessories, and goods for the home with a rustic edge. And the best part? All of it is made right here in the USA.
For a more literal display of cattle country visuals, Imogene + Willie has a killer assortment of graphic tees. If their collaboration with the “future of bluegrass,” Billy Strings, doesn’t tell you anything about their pistol-spinning prestige, I’m not sure what else will.
Wythe
I recently included Wythe’s Bedford Cord Ranch Jacket in a roundup of what’s lassoed my attention this August. Zooming out, the brand as a whole is in my top five for 2024—both for the story and product.
Founder Peter Middleton’s story is an underdog story in its own right. Wythe was met with bountiful acclaim for its nostalgic (and equally respectable) interpretation of western wear until a modern-day dust bowl knocked him off his horse.
Founded in January of 2020, the Coronavirus pandemic came trotting into town two months later. The next year, Hurricane Ida sent knee-high swells into their New Jersey warehouse, rendering their entire 2021 collection unsellable.
It’s 2024 and Wythe is arguably the hottest thing in western wear.
Their goodyear-welted calfskin cowboy boots are handmade in Leon, Mexico. The Raglan Wool Overcoat’s fabric is hand-spun in Ireland and sewn together in NYC. As far as quality goes, Wythe wears a big hat with the cattle to prove it.
Dunrite Leatherworks
Cowboy hats are the symbol of western fashion. Some might argue cowboy boots are. I’d say the pearl-snap denim shirt has a winning chance, too.
Guillermo Cuevas, founder of Dunrite Leatherworks, sinks his craftsmanship into boots and leather accessories, but his belts are the real showstoppers. And not always the ones fastened by a Texas-sized buckle.
You’ll notice that Dunrite’s online shop is modest in its offerings. That’s because the artisanal outfitter is primarily a made-to-order business.
Based on the customer’s vision, Guillermo adorns a leather with studs, jewels, and ‘fixins,’ culminating in a truly one-of-a-kind belt.
His style is a throwback to the pageantry of country artists of the 50s and 60s—think Elvis Presley’s sequined jumpsuits or “the man who made country sparkle,” Nudie Cohn.
If you’re just now wetting your beak with cowboy apparel, a standard western-buckle belt will do the trick just fine. For something truly delightful and undeniably personal, aim your sights over Dunrite.
Left Field NYC
The second NYC representative on this list, Left Field champions American-made goods and “the way things used to be done.”
I was first introduced to the brand by Drew Joiner, one of the most insightful menswear bloggers today. Left Field’s only location is located in Queens, a retail frontier in the grand scheme of New York. Upon first visit, the space struck me as an exhibit of the Wild West more than it did a sales floor.
Left Field is another brand that prioritizes quality in place of a wide assortment. Take their Chelsea Vidalia Mills 14 oz Indigo Selvedge jeans, for example. They’re made from heavy-duty, 100% American-grown cotton woven by one of the most revered cotton mills in the US, Vidalia Mills.
I can’t talk about Left Field in the context of western wear without calling out the Rodeo Denim Western Leisure Jacket—the finest example of bonafide cowboy swagger.
14 oz yard-dyed denim, rayon lining, custom copper buttons—all made in the US of A. Once every other culture-vulture brand gets a whiff of this piece, expect to see it everywhere.
Ginew
Blending Ojibwe, Oneida and Stockbridge-Munsee design, Ginew stands tall as one of the leading native-owned brands contributing to the modern western wear movement, and the only one specializing in denim.
Like others on this list, backyard talent sparks their craft into existence.
Their Raven Denim Jean “draws inspiration from traditional Tlingit formline designs, historic artifacts, spruce root basket weaving patterns,” resulting in a geometric pattern on the rear-right pocket. Alaskan artist J. Younger designed the raven stamped to the leather patch affixed to the Japanese Kurabo denim.
There aren’t many brands out there infusing this degree of spirit and cultural pride as Ginew, so suffice it to say, I saved best for last. Their deep respect for tradition and craftsmanship makes them a cornerstone of authentic Western wear and can be felt in every thread, stitch, and crease.
With all of the hype around western wear, you’d think that I’d be able to come up with more than five brands.
It’s one thing to be trendy. Doing something with quality, integrity, and respect for everything that came before is a whole other ball game. This list of brands exemplify those values.
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