Men’s cocktail attire involves a full suit and usually a tie. It’s less stuffy than black-tie formal but dressier than semi-formal. Since it isn’t professional, expressing your style through texture, color, and accessories is welcome as long as the result is polished and you stay within the full suit requirement.
I used to think “cocktail attire” meant house slippers.
Growing up, my father would come home from work, switch from his leather oxfords to his slippers, and jokingly say, “Time to get into my cocktail attire.” He and my mother would then promptly have their 6pm pre-dinner martini.
Suffice to say, that’s not what cocktail attire is in the real world.
In the real world, cocktail attire can be confusing. Most of us have an idea of what it possibly is, but aren’t sure where exactly it falls in the formality spectrum.
It’s a common party dress code, so I’m going to demystify it for you.
What Is Cocktail Attire Dress Code?
Here’s an easy explanation of what cocktail attire is: self-expression in a suit. It’s basically the same as business formal, but with room for more fun with color and accessories because there’s no fear of looking unprofessional. As such, it’s dressier than business because it’s “fancier” and more celebratory.
In a professional situation, out of respect to your professional higher-ups, you’d avoid a gold pie-pan watch or diamond-encrusted tie-clip so as not to potentially out-dress them. For cocktail though, you’d go for it if it’s your style.
When it comes to party dress codes, it’s less stuffy than full formal, black tie or tuxedos, that is. But, it’s more formal than semi-formal, though there is overlap between the two these days.
History of Men’s Cocktail Attire
Ironically, cocktail attire came about when cocktails weren’t even legal.
During the 1920s prohibition era, many well-heeled citizens and socialites still had access to illicit drinks. Of course, they had to be organized about how they imbibed, and thus cocktail hour was born.
Instead of the British 4pm tea time, it was a post-work, pre-dinner drink (or two) at sophisticated supper clubs.
Furthermore, European clothiers relied on American patronage in the post-war era. French designers created practical, sparse garments similar to daytime wear to support this new social ritual.
Cocktail hour required more freedom of movement than formal banquets, after all. However, designers built these new pieces with formal looking evening wear fabrics.
By the time Christian Dior coined the term “cocktail hour” in the ‘40s, it and its associated dress code, was an elevated society staple. Cocktail hour and its sartorial mores became associated with the urbane and the elite.
Cocktail attire grew in popularity beyond these supper clubs and to this day, is a common request at weddings, high-end sporting events like horse racing, and society events in general.
Modern-Day Cocktail Attire: It’s All About Balance
As with any dress code these days, though, there are nuances. The key thing here is balance.
If you’re wearing a crisp black suit, white dress shirt, and opera pumps, you may not necessarily need a tie. If you wear a broken suit, say cream pants and a blue jacket, a tie will anchor the look safely into the cocktail dress code.
Suppose you’re at a multi-event celebration with a semi-formal day and cocktail evening event. In that case, you can contextualize the latter by ensuring it’s more formal than the former. If you don’t wear a tie to the day event, wear one to the evening event. If you go for a broken suit for the former, go for a solid monochrome one for the latter.
Darker colors are a natural choice for cocktail attire. However, this isn’t a hard rule, especially when it comes to outdoor or summer events.
Cocktail Attire Outfits for Men
Here are some examples of gents in cocktail attire. Notice how there’s a wide range of style and self expression, even within the suit constraint.
I love how this guy takes a fully formal outfit concept but livens it up with color. If the suit and bowtie were black and the shirt white, it would be too ceremonial looking. Moreover, a striped shirt combined with a green bow tie might be too dandy for business formal.
As such, this fun, creative, yet still not overly flashy approach is perfect for the cocktail dress code.
This combination is a more modern-day example of cocktail attire. This is mainly due to the fact he’s not wearing a tie, which he more than makes up for. Everything else on him is fully formal, from his dark gray three-piece suit to his black dress shoes and socks.
The fine gentlemen in this image take a similar approach to the prior example. However, these crisp suits don’t include a vest, and they’re even going sockless.
This look would be perfect for a summer event or a beach wedding.
If you’re unsure whether to wear a tie to an event with a cocktail dress code, go for a slick, dark-colored turtleneck. I recommend going cashmere in cooler seasons.
It adds the same kind of structure around your neck as a collar and tie would, but it’s more relaxed looking without compromising the outfit’s chicness.
This outfit takes the three-piece suit concept and casualizes it by opting for a broken suit and replacing the suit vest with a button-up cardigan.
Even more, the pop of color via the cardigan and the patterned tie provides an elegant, almost preppy twist. This combination beautifully illustrates how there’s much more room for self expression in cocktail than in business formal.
This outfit takes a similar approach to the last one, but the cream pants are more casual than gray ones. Still, the buttonless red cashmere vest and matching solid tie are cleaner looking than a button-up and patterned tie.
Remember, it’s all about balance.
The texturing on his wide-lapel suit jacket and the pattern on his tie show that he’s having a bit of fun with his look. However, the highly formal and minimal white shirt and black pants ensure everything comes together in a clean and refined way.
One cool thing you can do with cocktail that you can’t do with full formal is incorporate formal concepts from other cultures, respectfully, of course. This Indian kurta-style top is a perfect example.
I’ve also seen those with Chinese backgrounds wear Mandarin collars under their suit jackets, and Scottish men incorporate tartans in the form of vests, pocket squares, and even sashes.
A Guide to the Cocktail Attire Dress Code for Men
Shirts
Within the cocktail attire realm, there’s room for different colors and patterns depending on the overall outfit. However, you’ll stick to traditional button-up dress shirts.
Fortunately, these days, there are some excellent options for visually conventional dress shirts made with touches of performance material. This allows you to look the part, feel comfortable, and ensure you’re not formal-level stuffy.
State & Liberty, which we’ve tested and reviewed in detail, is a perfect example. Their shirts are stretchy, with a clean, slim fit that flatters athletic and slim body types, and come in several colorways and styles.
If you have a broader, untapered body type, I recommend Mizzen + Main, which we’ve also reviewed. Their shirts are incredibly flexible, which is exactly what you want when you’re attending a celebratory event where there might be a dance floor.
Industry Guidelines
- Traditional white collar. White and light blue dress shirts are always your safest bet. You can opt for patterns, but stick to subtle ones and temper them with a solid suit and solid tie.
- Tech startups and creative roles. Since you probably have a more casual or open dress code during the workday, you will likely be expected to fancy it up if your company requests a cocktail dress code for an evening event. Still, you can probably have fun with patterns and colors as long as the overall outfit is still refined.
- Sales and service roles. If your company throws a cocktail dress event with clients around, you’ll basically wear the same kinds of shirts you’d wear at a client meeting. If it’s an in-house event, there may be more room to try bolder shirts. This all depends on your company culture though.
Pants
If you’re going for a full, monochrome suit, then you’ll, of course, just wear the suit pants that your jacket comes with.
If you’re going for a broken suit approach, just make sure your pants and jacket have enough contrast that it looks intentional. You can even go for chinos if they’re sleek and refined enough.
I’m again going to highlight State & Liberty because their pant suits are made for athletic body types and even have four-way stretch. And like their shirts, their suits come in a wide range of colors and styles, including neutral solids, patterns, and heathered options.
State & Liberty is an excellent brand for fit guys who want flattering clothes for the office. The shirts embellish that hard work you’ve been putting in at the gym, and anything you pick up from S&L is going to be as comfortable as dress clothes can get.
Industry Guidelines
- Traditional white collar. Most of the time, you’ll want to match your pants to your suit jacket. Go for darker suits in the winter, like navy or charcoal, either dark suits or ones in earth tones (like a dark olive) in the fall, and lighter suits in spring and summer.
- Tech startups and creative roles. Since you likely have more freedom with personal style in these industries, you can go for pants that match your jacket or a broken suit approach.
- Sales and service roles. Again, if the cocktail event includes clients, you’ll take the more white collar approach. If it’s in-house, you may be able to have fun with expressive but still formal suit colors, such as olive and burgundy.
Shoes
Just go for dress shoes. There might be some wildly rare exceptions in which you’ll be allowed to do the suit-with-sneakers thing, but it’s better to be safe than sorry if you aren’t sure.
The good thing here is you can basically wear whatever dress shoes you’re most comfortable with.
My favorite classic oxford is the Bridlen Melbourne. It’s a slick, trend-resistant design that’s, of course, Goodyear-welted.
Find me a more versatile color Oxford than burgundy. I shall wait. And while I'm waiting, I'll keep drinking in these beauties from Arteton. With their oak-tanned leather sole, these are my go-to suggestion Oxford for any guy looking for a stunning pair that will last a decade with proper care.
If you want a more effortless but still refined shoe, check out the G.H. Bass Weejun loafer. It’s the OG of the silhouette that perfectly straddles formal aesthetics and relaxed ones.
These classic loafers in black leather look great matched with modern styling, but fit into office attire just as well.
Industry Guidelines
- Traditional white collar. Opt for a dark lace-up dress shoe or sharp loafer in black, brown, or burgundy.
- Tech startups and creative roles. If your tech company throws a shindig with a cocktail dress code, the best bet is to go for dress shoes. However, if you’re confident sneakers wouldn’t be frowned upon, go for black or brown leather dress sneakers.
- Sales and service roles. The more client-facing your role, the more formal it tends to be. That being the case, you’ll go for dress shoes for cocktail events in this industry.
Ties
Traditionally, cocktail attire requires a tie, though that’s not always the case these days. It’s still the safest way to go.
That being the case, you have more leeway to try out different types of ties in a cocktail situation than in a professional situation.
If you’ve always wanted to try an ascot, a day wedding with a cocktail dress code might be the time to give it a shot.
Industry Guidelines
- Traditional white collar. With few exceptions, you’ll likely need to wear a tie.
- Tech startups and creative roles. You may not need to wear a tie, but if you opt not to, just make sure you balance it out with some extra formality elsewhere. Stick to a white dress shirt, and you might add a suit vest to the mix.
- Sales and service roles. Similar to the expectations in the traditional white collar category, you’ll wear a tie more often than not.
Accessories and Extras
Regardless of what industry you’re in, a cocktail event is a good time to have a little fun with accessories in a way you can’t in a boardroom or more casual situations.
Here are some accessories and extras you can use to bring a little character to your outfit:
- A wristwatch or even a pocket watch
- A pocket square
- A tie clip or cufflinks
- Represent your culture by incorporating formal accessories and extras from it. A Mandarin collar, Scottish tartan, or even a Western bolo tie are a few examples
- Using your socks as a pop of color
- A suit vest for a highly formal look or a sweater for a cozier look. Cashmere is universally elegant, while cable-knit has a preppy undertone
Conclusion
The biggest takeaway here is that though there’s room to incorporate your personal style into cocktail attire, just remember that it’s still ultimately a suit and tie dress code.
These days, you can add some casualized components, as long as the resulting outfit has the same effect as a suit and tie. So if you choose not to wear a tie, just make sure people don’t miss it.
If you’re attending your company’s event or a close friend’s wedding, you’ll likely know what rules you can bend. And if you don’t, just remember that it’s better to be safe than sorry.
