In any rivalry, who comes out on top often depends on context, circumstance, and personal preference. Think about it—Omega versus Rolex. Lager versus ale. Peyton versus Eli. Peyton takes home the gold when it comes to stats, but Eli wins when it comes to awards.
This is also true in menswear. Today, the showdown is between linen and cotton shirts.
Neither is inherently better than the other. You might prefer linen shirts in certain situations and dress codes and cotton in others. Or perhaps you’re a die-hard for just one fabric due to personal tastes.
In this guide, we’re going to go over the functional and sartorial values of each. By the end, you’ll know the pros and cons of both shirt types and, hopefully, which camp you fall in.
The Linen Shirt: Breathable, Durable, and Resort-chic
Linen is made from the flax plant—the stem specifically. Harvesters separate the cellulose fibers inside the stalks, which are then spun and woven into linen fabric.
These fibers are long and straight, making them naturally much stronger than cotton fibers. Of course, some clothing manufacturers fortify their cotton shirts, but all things considered, linen can be up to three times more durable.
Linen shirts are also breathable, comfortable, and moisture-wicking. A linen top can draw sweat away from your body and move it to the outside of the fabric, where it’ll evaporate faster. You’re less likely to develop sweat stains, which is why linen button-ups are so popular in hot weather.
Summer versions of essential menswear are often made of linen. The Charles Tyrwhitt Pure Linen Shirt is a good example, since it has the very same silhouette and build as a traditional cotton dress shirt.
Anytime James Bond had to suit up in the Bahamas, he was likely going for linen. It’s not just for camp collars and other out-of-office pieces. Another good example from Charles Tyrwhitt is the Pure Linen Polo, which will do a much better job of keeping sweat off your body than a traditional pique polo.
Like denim, linen gets softer and more comfortable the more you wear and wash it, and it lasts for decades. Don’t worry, though. Unlike denim, you don’t have to break it in. Unworn linen shirts are perfectly comfortable.
This is the kind of linen shirt that feels featherlight but built to last—slubby texture, breathable weave, and surprisingly tough. Whether I’m tossing it over a tee or swapping it in for a blazer, it pulls off polished and relaxed without breaking a sweat (even when I do).
The Cotton Shirt: Soft, Absorbent, and Universal
Cotton is a more common shirt material made from the namesake plant. Unlike linen, which is made from the stock, the cotton fiber is taken from the fluffy growths surrounded by a leaf-like protector called the boll. As such, when these fibers are spun into yarn, you get a soft and flexible material.
Cotton is highly absorbent, and depending on weave and weight, warmer than linen. Its ability to easily and quickly soak up moisture is why rags and towels are usually made from terry cloth cotton. Linen’s light weight and lack of absorbency make it a popular summertime staple, whereas cotton shirts are foundational to a fall and winter wardrobe.
While not all cotton shirts are made alike, they’re generally more crisp and versatile than linen ones. Linen has a specific, elegant, yet effortless vibe. Cotton is more universal. Standard shirts are made with short-fiber Upland cotton, which is sturdy and can be woven thick or thin.
If you want a more premium shirt, you can choose one made from Egyptian cotton or Pima cotton. Both are known for their durable, long fibers, which are hand-picked and individually assessed. The result is a breathable, luxurious shirt that can even be silk-like.
So while linen’s texture and slight wrinkling are part of its appeal, formal cotton dress shirts should typically be pressed for maximum neatness. If you’re lazy like me, however, there are some crease-resistant shirts on the market. Charles Tyrwhitt’s Spread Collar Non-Iron Twill Shirt is 100% pure cotton but has been put through a high-heat process, resulting in a wrinkle-free finish.
Smooth, and mid-weight, this is the kind of shirt I reach for whenever I need the dapper demeanor of an Oxford without the robust fabric that can simply feel overbearing on sweltering summer afternoons.
Pima cotton shirts are extra soft and airy, but are also strong and less likely to pill. It’s the more accessible premium fabric between the two. As you can imagine, Egyptian cotton can only be made in one place (I’ll give you a hint: This place has a famous river).
Thanks to having the longest fibers of all the cottons, Egyptian shirts boast luster and strength and can be woven into higher thread counts. This is why Egyptian cotton sheets are so coveted. A higher thread count results in a finer, more closely woven surface. Egyptian cotton tops have a satiny quality to them without going full Liberace.
Cotton vs Linen Shirts: When Should You Wear Each?
Whether you should wear one over the other depends on the weather, dress codes, and your budget.
Remember that linen is moisture-wicking, while cotton is absorbent. Though cotton can mop up sweat, linen ensures it evaporates faster. So, as an approximate rule, go for thick cotton in cool weather, either thin cotton or linen in warm weather, and linen in warm, humid weather.
So, if you’re in a warm climate and need to look corporate, you can choose a high-quality linen dress shirt or a very thinly woven cotton shirt.
One consideration that might tip the scale, though, is if you’re constantly switching back and forth between the indoors and the outdoors. Perhaps you’re on a business trip in Florida, and your clients prefer lunch meetings at their favorite outdoor dining spot, rather than presentations in an air-conditioned boardroom.
Here, my advice is to stick to thin cotton. Linen may keep you comfortable when you’re under the sun, but it won’t protect you from central air the way cotton can.
Of course, this also depends on your ability to tolerate heat versus cold, and how much you perspire. If you’re in a hot climate, prefer cotton’s softness, don’t sweat much, and aren’t beholden to a dress code, feel free to wear that cotton camp collar.
Next up: Soft, organic cotton is one of the most comfortable materials on earth. While linen shirts feel better and better with every wear, cotton wears perfectly from the get-go. Linen simply isn’t as elastic as cotton, which makes it static and abrasion resistant, but also prone to wrinkles.
Linen is more hypoallergenic than cotton, making flax-based shirts ideal during hay fever season. As someone with allergies, I prefer linen shirts during the springtime.
From a financial point of view, linen is generally more expensive than cotton. Its harvesting process is much more labor-intensive and requires far more steps. If you find nice linen shirts within your budget (or on sale), go for them.
Finally, you might also consider a blend of linen and cotton. Charles Tyrwhitt’s Cotton Linen Shirt combines linen’s breathability with a soft, non-iron weave.
Cotton's softness, linen's breathability, all packaged with the hassle-free benefits of a non-iron design? Rocking it is quite literally a breeze.
Conclusion: The Style Factor
So, what does a linen shirt say about you versus a cotton shirt?
Cotton offers a more universal aesthetic, which is why most crewnecks are made of it. If you’re an under-the-radar kind of guy who doesn’t like making a splash, then a casual cotton shirt with jeans and sneakers is more your vibe. Still, you’d be surprised how much a neutral-toned, short-sleeve linen shirt can level up your look while remaining fairly inconspicuous.
High-quality Egyptian cotton and Pima cotton can make even the simplest shirt exude quiet luxury. If you’re a trendier gent, you might consider interesting fabric compositions, like slub cotton, which purposefully incorporates uneven weaves.
Linen may be resort-chic, but it isn’t prissy. A guy who wears a linen shirt isn’t always a man of leisure; he may be a man of adventure who happens to have class and taste (See: earlier James Bond reference).
Personally, I don’t like luster. Linen’s texturing adds an elegant character to shirts that isn’t as uppity as the shinier Egyptian cotton shirts out there. And while some linen does shine a bit, the fabric’s topography tempers the gleam.
Ultimately, it’s all about personal preferences. Stick to dress codes, mind the weather, then do you.
