Not to brag, but I get a lot of compliments on my skin. I’ve been told that I’m always “glowing” and I’m often asked if I ever break out. It’s a feature I take a lot of pride in.
Here’s a secret, though. It isn’t genetics. In fact, I had terrible skin in high school. It also lasted well into my 20s, so you know it wasn’t just puberty’s havoc. It turned out it was my skincare routine (or lack thereof).
For you men out there who’d rather suffer through the occasional spot than have to spend any more time in front of the mirror—no worries. My go-to clear skin routine is as straightforward as throwing a fishing line.
Of course, not all skin problems are alike. I’ve consulted friends, colleagues, industry folks, and my own dermatologist to ensure all priorities are covered.
Step 1: Pinpoint Your Skin Issues and Don’t Overdo it
The best routine for clear skin consists of a cleanser, a toner (not always), and a moisturizer. That’s two to three steps, two minutes at most. I told you it would be easy.
In fact, my friend, a former dermatologist who’s now in beauty, told me that most people, if not all, shouldn’t have more than three steps. When you have a million procedures in your routine, you might think you’re attacking several problems at once. But what if the key ingredients in each step don’t go together? What if the products have different pHs?
Acne, redness, excess oil, and scars are all interrelated. Scars are often caused by being too aggressive with your acne-focused face wash. So, to prevent both, you need a cleanser that works smarter, not harder. When I was a teen, I used an intense exfoliating, drying face wash that left an acne scar near my nose that’s still there. Don’t be like me.
One or more of the steps in your routine serves as the treatment. What I mean by this is that the cleanser may be doing more than cleansing; it may be targeting acne. The moisturizer might be doing more than moisturizing; it could also be healing scars. Or perhaps, you have a separate treatment step.
You always want your skin routine to do three things:
- Cleanse
- Moisturize
- Treat
Don’t overdo the treatments. Use your acne-focused products one evening, then your redness-focused products the next. Or, make sure your system is tailored to your specific assortment of skin issues.
I’ve found this system to be gentle and effective and I love that it doesn't have any nasties like benzoyl peroxide. It's consistently cleared away blemishes and pesky acne and nourished and hydrated my skin to look healthier than ever.
Now More Than Ever, it’s Easy to Create a Personalized Skin Routine
I know what you’re thinking: Fine, the routine itself can be fast and easy—once I work that routine out. I don’t have the time and patience to figure out the chemistry of my skin.
Fear not. These days, there are some great skincare systems that make it easy. When I say some, I really mean some. They aren’t all great.
Personally, I love brands like Geologie that use dermatologist-backed ingredients and are mercifully user-friendly. Give me an Acne Repair Wash over a synthetic cleanser or glucosaminoglycan treatment any day. Moreover, give me the active elements on the front of the packaging so I don’t have to read the back and then Google what these particular ingredients are for.
Geologie even has a survey you can take to design your system for more nuanced issues. My point is that there’s no excuse for not developing a skin routine these days. Now, let’s get that face cleaned and moisturized.
Step 2: Pick A Cleanser—And Use it Properly
I highly recommend finding a gentle facewash with a little bit of salicylic acid in it. I’d say 2% is a sweet spot. Remember, you don’t want an overly aggressive cleanser. That being said, avoid cleansers with benzoyl peroxide. It’s a known carcinogen and it zaps acne by attacking bacteria, not all of which are bad.
Salicylic acid, meanwhile, dissolves dead skin, cells, debris, and oil that cause breakouts. The exfoliation process improves skin texture, reduces bumps, targets blackheads and whiteheads, and enhances brightness. Moreover, if you suffer from redness, salicylic acid’s anti-inflammatory qualities help soothe and reduce swelling.
Basically, while benzoyl peroxide indiscriminately assails your skin, salicylic acid advances your skin’s natural cycle.
When you wash your face, use lukewarm water. Cold water is great for temporarily reducing puffiness, but it can dry your skin and strip it of its natural oils. Make sure your hands are clean. Apply a small amount of your cleanser to your hands, then massage your face in small, circular motions. Rinse your face off, then pat it dry with a soft towel. Be gentle.
Don’t Forget Your Body Wash
When choosing a body wash, you want both a BHA (like salicylic acid) and an AHA. This is because your body is usually drier than your face. BHAs are oil-soluble and disconnect dead cells, while AHAs cause the dead cells to detach and fall away.
The AHA glycolic acid works beautifully with salicylic acid, which is why Geologie’s Acne Control Superclean Body Wash is one of my favorites. Glycolic acid also treats dry, damaged, or mature skin while also promoting cell turnover. As such, body washes with glycolic acid are effectively anti-aging. Cell turnover is what helps keep your skin fresh and clear. As you get older, this process takes longer, making AHAs a necessary part of your skin routine.
This stuff packs some serious firepower against pesky body acne. Salicylic and glycolic acid, and the AHA + BHA formula work together to deeply cleanse and exfoliate pores, which prevents acne breakouts and swiftly handles active acne. I like that it’s made without fragrances and harmful cleansing agents, which makes it safe and effective to use for all skin types.
When you’re using a proper AHA-BHA body wash, all you need to do is lather a small amount onto your wet body in the shower. Let it sit for 30 seconds or up to a minute if you have time, then rinse thoroughly.
Step 3: Do You Need a Toner?
Truthfully, no one really needs a toner. Toners can remove excess dirt, but a good cleanser will have already done that. Toners can also provide a protective barrier against environmental stressors, but a good moisturizer does that as well.
Think of it as a bonus step—another opportunity to add treatment to your skin. Pick a toner that does the same thing your cleanser or moisturizer does, whether it’s a BHA-AHA toner or a moisturizing toner. If you’d rather keep your routine pared down, skip right to the moisturizing step.
If your issue is skin redness, there are creams made up of toning and calming ingredients. Azelaic acid brightens dark spots left by acne and soothes inflamed pores. Niacinamide reduces redness and hyperpigmentation. Hyaluronic acid is an exfoliator that reduces inflammation.
Step 4: Moisturization is of the Utmost Importance
Moisturizing is the most important step in any skincare routine. If I wake up late and have five seconds to get out the door, I’ll splash my face with water and at least get some moisturizer on. No matter what your skin issue, dryness is the enemy.
A lot of the time, dehydrated skin is a major culprit for acne. When your skin is thirsty, it overdoes the oil, and boom, more spots. The worst zit-zappers from the ‘90s would dry up your skin in hopes to suck out all of your acne oil. It may temporarily kill the current spots, but it would also put your skin in this toxic cycle of dehydration to excessive oil production back to dehydration. It also causes scarring.
If your pores tend to clog, find a non-comedogenic moisturizer. Finally, avoid ingredients like parabens, phthalates (which are hormone disruptors), and sulfates (which strip away natural oils).
Retinol and Oil: The Right Way to Use Them
One of the best moisturizers on the market is Geologie’s Retinol Skin Repair Moisturizer. There are two main reasons it’s so effective for a wide range of skin types—and these are qualities you want to look for in any skin-clearing moisturizer.
This one’s a no-brainer if you want smoother, clearer skin. It’s got hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and just the right amount of retinol to do the work while you sleep—no irritation, no hassle. Just slap it on before bed and wake up with skin that looks and feels better.
First, in addition to hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, there’s retinol in it. Some of you may have heard that retinol has a terrible adjustment period. It sucks out all of the bad stuff from your skin, but to do that, it brings it all to the surface first. Essentially, your skin gets bad first, but you’ll come out the other side better than ever. For those of us who don’t have the luxury of hiding out for a month, this might not be worth it.
Geologie’s Skin Repair contains only .2% retinol, offering a soft and gradual purge period. It’s one of those ingredients that increases cell turnover, ensuring you always look good as new.
Second, there are a lot of good oils in there, including coconut oil and grape seed oil. Don’t let this scare you, my oilier gents. A basic principle in chemistry is that like attracts like. If you have oily skin, you need something with oil in it to remove excess oil without depleting your skin completely. Remember, completely drying it out will just put you in a toxic cycle.
Handling Skin Emergencies
When I say skin emergency, I’m not referring to medical emergencies (go to a doctor for those). I’m referring to a surprise spot or blemish on an inconvenient day. No one wants bad skin during an important presentation, or worse yet, your own wedding.
Look for spot creams with a little bit of sulfur, say, 5%. It doesn’t dry up the spot area as much as it reduces inflammation, unclogs the pore, and targets the bad bacteria.
You can also try hydrocolloid patches—something akin to Geologie’s Zit Zapper Pimple Patches. I’ve had good experiences with these. Remember when I said that like attracts like? Hydrocolloid patches create an atmosphere of moisture around the spot. This absorbs excess fluids like oil and, sorry to be gross, pus. It’s essentially cleaning out the spot area. Even more, the patch protects the compromised skin. Like a plaster, this promotes healing and reduces inflammation.
Again, I want to remind you that all you need is the right cleanser, moisturizer, and two to three minutes out of your day. Also, with the right brand, finding a personalized system can be quick and painless.
Health and self-esteem are made up of a variety of moving parts. Isn’t it a relief to know that this part of it is more attainable than you may have thought?
I’ve found this system to be gentle and effective and I love that it doesn't have any nasties like benzoyl peroxide. It's consistently cleared away blemishes and pesky acne and nourished and hydrated my skin to look healthier than ever.
