While shirts made of linen have been around for thousands of years, the ‘linen shirt’ we know today only became popular over the last century. Its natural breathability and unique texture make it perfect for warm-weather dressing, whether you’re heading to a casual beach outing or a more polished evening event. The simple aesthetic of linen shirts makes them easy to style, but a colored shirt or one made by Madda Fella with printed cuffs can make more of a statement. In searching for a linen shirt that looks good, fits well, and lasts, pay attention to the fit, fabric specifications, and weight. Finally, washing linen shirts is a breeze as long as you stick to cold water and hang drying.
Everyone’s so giddy for summer that warm-weather attire hits the shelves in March.
That summer gear has a lot of subgenres within it: nautical, preppy, athletic, formal. However, unlike fall and winter, layers of glorious textures and colors are a burden. Crafting an outfit is inherently simple when staying dry becomes the priority.
And not dry from precipitation… but your own perspiration.
Enter linen.
Despite the fabric’s unrefined character, it’s one of the most functional textiles for the summer heat. Between its rich texture, natural breathability, and soft feel, everything about it makes it the material for staying cool on blazing summer days and looking fresh for seaside cocktails.
While it sounds uncomplicated, linen shirts, pants, and jackets have a distinct look that became synonymous with summer months and warm climates. Furthermore, linen’s organic appearance isn’t as versatile as, say, oxford cloth is.
I set out to create the commandments of linen—the definitive manual of when to wear it, how to style it, and how to take care of it, among other things. Why? Because I wear linen religiously, and I see plenty of guys out there who aren’t maximizing its potential.
With that being said, allow me to present a brief history on the breeziest fabric known to man and how you can look the most fly in it.
The Linen Shirt: A History
The linen shirt’s long history began thousands of years ago in ancient Egypt, where the material’s popularity stemmed from the simple need to stay cool in the desert.
Once the Greeks and Romans caught wind, linen went west towards Portugal and east towards China. Now it can be found on the backs of every man clutching a margarita wherever “Cheeseburger in Paradise” plays on repeat.
Fast forward to the Renaissance, and linen shirts were all the rage among European aristocrats. They were a luxury item. Unlike the minimalist silhouettes of today, linen shirts during this era were often decked out with lace and fancy embroidery and were imported from top linen-producing countries like Ireland and Belgium. It was also common to see basic overshirts with billowy sleeves and a hood.
In the 20th century, the linen shirt made a big comeback as a symbol of laid-back style. Famous figures like Ernest Hemingway and John F. Kennedy made the linen shirt look effortlessly cool, whether they were on a tropical getaway or attending a summer soirée. The shirt’s easygoing, breathable fabric made it a perfect choice for warm weather and casual elegance.
These days, the linen shirt is still a symbol of living it up under the sun. It’s comfortable, gets better with age, and works for almost any occasion. They haven’t evolved much style-wise from the last century, but you will find brands iterating on all-over prints and slim-fitting cuts.
When to Wear Linen Shirts
Linen shirts are basically your best friend when spring and summer roll around.
The fabric has a loose weave, meaning there are more gaps between each thread. This is what allows for enough airflow to avoid the dreaded Mickey Mouse sweat print on your chest. Linen doesn’t stick to your skin as easily as synthetics.
So when it’s hot enough to sear a flank steak on the hood of your car, that’s your cue to whip out your linen shirts.
Aside from the seasons themselves, there’s a multitude of scenarios that call linen’s name. Fortunately, most linen shirts are versatile.
There’s the typical settings most people associate linen shirts with: beach weddings, seaside drinks with a special someone, or a backyard barbecue. Put simply, they’re a shoo-in any time you want to look nice without beads of sweat rolling down your face.
Linen is an equally strong candidate for casual shirting, though.
I recently attended a family friend’s party at their beach house. The dress code was bathing suits. I certainly didn’t plan on trotting around in my swim trunks for four hours, so I wore my most recent linen addition from Madda Fella. The printed cuffs played into the festive vibe, but the point collar and crisp fabric say “I’m here to party and look good doing it.”
In short, whether the day demands for nonchalant looks or your best-dressed self, linen shirts always play the part.
How to Style a Linen Shirt
The beauty of a linen shirt is its versatility—it’s one of those rare pieces that can swing from casual to classy with just a few tweaks.
Outside of a chest logo or seashell buttons, linen shirts don’t typically feature elevated motifs unless you can find a brand that specializes in unique linen shirts.
Simplicity is part of their appeal, of course, but the Ernest Long Sleeve Linen Shirt is a great example of a stylish modification. Madda Fella’s contrasting cuffs and plackets add a subtle hint of color when most linen shirts are monotoned. This is perfect to rock on top of like-colored bottoms without a “matchy-matchy” presentation.
Linen is the only thing I'll wear for long-sleeved shirts in hot weather, and Madda Fella's is pure quality. The lightweight fabric and standard fit allow plenty of airflow on humid days, and minimal branding keeps things classy.
White is the vanilla, the Times New Roman, the No. 2 pencil of linen shirts—the default. It’s truly impossible to mess up styling a white linen shirt, and boy do they compliment a sun-kissed tan.
On the flip side, they’re beachy. I don’t abide by the post-Labor-Day white rule. I still wouldn’t wear one with light-wash jeans on a warm September day unless I was on my way to the airport before jet-setting to Acapulco.
Color is where things get interesting. Any light shade of pink, tan, green, blue, or yellow embodies the carefree, summer-loving charm of linen. These shades can be trickier to match, so I’d aim for light-wash jeans, white, or black pants to keep things easy.
Bold colors aren’t as common, but you will see them out there. Part of what makes linen so beachy is its raw texture. Bold colors such as royal blue, navy, or burgundy maintain all the breathability without the coastal accent.
Finally, black is my pick for moody, intimate plans at night—nightclubs, restaurants, or concerts. Black linen shirts are the easiest to style with pants of any color. Matching trousers will cement that sleek demeanor, while white or khaki make for a dressier look.
Depending on the weather, we aren’t always afforded cooler nights where pants are a no-brainer. While shorts aren’t the most formal attire, they’re acceptable basically everywhere outside of black or white-tie events.
Try pairing your linen shirt with a pair of chinos or well-fitted shorts. If it’s a real barn burner one day, you can go for what I call the “Florida Keys tuxedo”—a linen shirt and linen bottoms.
Or if you’re still looking for something summery with a more substantial feel, the flat-front design and drawstring closure on Madda Fella’s Corduroy Drawstring Shorts are an equal balance of smart casual and carefree casual.
Ironing shorts and matching my belt are a waste of island time. The khaki-colored corduroy screams class while the drawstring waist whispers convenience and leisure, and the rope-style drawstring with brass tips keeps the tone nautical.
Footwear-wise, the rule of thumb is to lean dressy, so you can’t go wrong with some clean white sneakers, boat shoes, loafers, or fisherman sandals. Athletic sneakers with linen is a pure culture clash.
How to Pick Out the Right Linen Shirt
Choosing the right linen shirt isn’t just about grabbing the first one you see on the rack. You want something that looks good, feels great, and fits your lifestyle. Here’s what you should keep in mind when picking out your perfect linen shirt.
First up, fabric quality. Not all linen is created equal. You want something that’s soft but durable—linen that feels good against your skin and stands up to wear and tear.
100% Irish linen, like what you’ll find in Madda Fella’s Ernest Long Sleeve Linen Shirt, is the better choice if you want something more robust. Thicker linen will last longer, but at the same time, it will be slightly less breathable.
Next, think about the fit. Linen shirts are meant to be relaxed, but you don’t want to look like you’re swimming in it. Aim for a fit that’s comfortable but still has some structure.
The nice part about the relaxed fit of linen shirts is that they’re often designed with a length that can be tucked or untucked. Compare that to other dress shirts that are either one or the other.
Last but not least, comfort. Don’t be fooled by the initial texture of a genuine linen shirt as opposed to a linen/cotton blend. Because flax fibers aren’t as small as cotton’s, it might feel rigid or starchy at first. Rest assured, linen breaks in quickly and softly. Just be sure to steer clear of linen that feels thin or has gaps between the fibers big enough to be visible.
Caring for Linen Shirts
People assume they should wash linen with hot water. While they might be true for whites, which many linen shirts are, hot water is harsher on linen than heavier fabrics like cotton, wool, or denim.
For the best care of your linen shirts, it’s highly recommended to use cold water and a gentle cycle. This method, when used with other delicate fabrics, reduces the amount of friction that can break down the bottom hem, armpit stitch, and collar.
When it comes to drying, air drying is your best bet. Linen dries quickly, so just hang it up, and you’ll be good to go. If you prefer to use a dryer, opt for a low heat setting. Too much heat can weaken the fibers and cause wrinkles to set in more deeply.
Speaking of wrinkles, yes, linen wrinkles—it’s part of the charm. If you want a more polished look, ironing is an option. Just make sure to do it while the shirt is still slightly damp, and use a medium-hot iron. For a more relaxed, lived-in look, you can embrace those natural creases and wear them as they are.
Porosity is linen’s achilles heel. That empty space between the fibers is a magnet to any moisture that it touches.
Being careful with red wine or pasta sauce is obvious, but white linen shirts in particular are susceptible to pit stains more than shirts with a tighter weave. Based on my testing, Shout or any other spot treatment along with OxiClean powder in the load is the best method for treating those nasty yellow splotches.
Conclusion
Picture this: you, your closest comrades by your side, coconut cocktails in hand with palm trees rustling overhead.
Before reading this guide, maybe you didn’t know how to bring your most stylish, linened-out self to the occasion. If that was the case, nobody will question whether you’re the supreme leader of summer swagger now.
Linen shirts are indeed an effortless option for warm weather, but that doesn’t mean you can hone in on their distinct character with a bit of studying.
If you’re ever seeking to be the most well-dressed man in the cabana when the mercury rises, linen shirts rise to the occasion. Now put on the SPF and carry that crown with pride.
Madda Fella makes quality clothes with very unique designs. The apparel line is priced on the higher end, but if you like Madda Fella’s prints and want to bring a taste of the tropics to your town, it’s probably the best brand to turn to.
