“Fashion fades, only style remains the same.”
– Coco Chanel
Overused quote? Maybe.
True?
Definitely!
If you understand how to style your clothes, if you really understand how to express your voice through style, it does not matter in what era your clothing was “in fashion.” The unique and individual way in which you wear it will never fade.
With that in mind, there are some rules you should know to keep you on the right track in your style journey.
I know, I know…there aren’t any real “rules” in the style world. But the following are my (very) strong suggestions as to what things you ought to be doing if you’re serious about upping your style game.
Invest in a Quality Suit (and Know How to Wear It)
An essential item in any man’s wardrobe is a well-made suit. At some point, you’re going to have to wear one. Save yourself any last-minute hassle and invest in one NOW. Then you’ll know you’re covered (literally) when occasion arises.
Fit comes first, so you must know how your suit should fit before you attempt to buy one. Check out my article “The Ultimate Head-to-Toe Clothing Fit Guide for Men” to make sure you’re feeling confident ahead of your next buy.
If your budget and time-frame allow, go the custom route and have something made especially for you. It’s a superior way to procure a properly tailored suit, since measurements are taken before the pattern is cut.
Invest in Quality Shoes
Do not skimp out on shoes. You will spend ample time on your feet throughout your life. Your shoes take a great deal of wear as a result.
If you want to be comfortable, buy a great pair of shoes. If you don’t want to buy again in three months, buy a great pair of shoes. If you want to find love, buy a great pair of shoes…I digress. But, I only half-jest. The ladies love it when you put a little extra effort into your shoe game.
This goes for footwear of both the formal and informal variety. Invest in a good dress shoe the same way you’d invest in a good sneaker. And if you’re athletic, an additional investment toward a proper trainer would be of equal significance.
Invest in a Quality Coat
If you live in an area prone to frigid weather, a quality coat is a must. Aside from an electrically heated coat, there is no man-made option that exceeds the functionality of natural materials.
If you need a coat you can count on, wool is the ideal choice. There are many types of wool available, some warmer than others. But 100% wool of any kind will be more reliable than anything you likely have at the moment.
A wool coat is not cheap, especially if purchased new or custom-made. If you’re on a tight budget, shop vintage!
Don’t Over or Under-Accessorize
Accessories are a great way to add flair and personality to your outfit. And I highly recommend them. But going overboard can undermine your outfit as a whole and diminish the effortless elegance your outfit had just moments before.
If you’re ever unsure, just take one or two accessories off before stepping out the door.
Smaller Watches, Please
Most of you are wearing watches far too large for your wrists. It’s not a sundial, mate. And the folks sitting on the other end of the park already have their own way to tell time.
Wrist size differs amongst us, but a 36-40mm watch dial seems to be the sweet spot as a (almost) “one-size-fits-all”. So start there. The era of minimal watches has returned, and I’m here for it.
Suits and Sneakers Don’t Jive
Cool it with the sneaks, friend. As a society, we’ve become extraordinarily casual. So if you’re going to dress up, do it right. Say it with me; “I will no longer wear sneakers with suits.”
Athletic Soles on Dress Shoes? I Think Not!
When seeking out your new go-to dress shoe, avoid the athletic sole like the plague. Their rise in popularity has been made easy by the decline of high quality, leather shoes. Not to mention the fact that they are much cheaper and easier to produce.
Look instead for a dress shoe with a leather sole and Goodyear welt or Blake stitch construction. Leather soles have a short break in period as they form to your feet. But once broken in, leather soles provide a great deal of comfort, last practically forever, and add an air of sophistication unobtainable in an athletic dress shoe.
The athletic-soled dress shoes are barely a step above sneakers (see above). However, they would be an acceptable choice in a business casual situation. Just avoid wearing them with a suit.
Tut Tut to Tuxedo Rentals
If you’re serious about style and improving your wardrobe, you should have already considered investing in a tuxedo of your own. These days, rare is the opportunity for most of us to don black tie.
But a tuxedo remains at the peak of formal attire, and as such, the idea of purchasing one should not be repressed to the darkest corners of your mind.
A rental will likely never fit you well enough, so take a little extra time and spend a little extra money on a proper tux. Imagine how good you’ll feel when you’re finally invited to attend an event where black tie is required. The perfect tuxedo is already waiting in your closet!
Skinny Ties are Out
And have been for a while. Your tie should be a minimum of three inches wide. My preference is around 3.75 inches (9.5cm).
Bonus: The Windsor knot is out, too. The knot looks large and cumbersome and doesn’t allow for a proper dimple. The only tie knot you need to know is the four-in-hand.
Dress Appropriately for the Occasion
You may be in Canada, but don’t wear a Canadian tuxedo to a wedding (unless you were asked to, of course). Whatever the occasion, know what is (and isn’t) appropriate to wear. When in doubt, overdress.
The only times that being overdressed is inappropriate is at a wedding or a funeral. You don’t want to look better than the groom at a wedding. And you don’t want to look like you came from your own wedding to attend a funeral.
Curate a Wardrobe of Versatile Pieces
I love a good statement piece, but it’s important to keep a supply of versatile items on hand. The kinds of things that go with everything. Basic t-shirts in neutral colors, simple sweaters, dark-colored trousers, jeans, a go-to jacket, etc.
Embrace Color and Patterns
I have found that a high number of men tend to shy away from bold colors and patterns. In my years as a menswear consultant, I have come to realize this is most often due to insecurity about how to wear them.
Admittedly, it can be a bit intimidating. But life is too short to pass on the opportunity. A good place to start is with your favorite color. A shirt or pair of pants will do. Branch out from there and explore patterns that also catch your eye. No one will question when you wear them with confidence.
Chill on the Logos
Seriously, stick to one obvious logo at a time. Or go without. There’s nothing wrong with repping a brand you’re passionate about. But you don’t want to look like a walking billboard ad.
I admit I once ventured through this phase. It’s not worth it! Unfortunately, it doesn’t say “wealth,” which tends to be the motivator for an excess of visible logos. The “quiet luxury” trend is a much more effective way to look like you have money, if that’s what you’re going for.
Tuck in Everything
Almost everything. T-shirts, buttons-ups, tanks…you’ll benefit from the proportions you get with a tucked-in top (or two).
Understand Proportions
You should understand how your clothing can affect your proportions. Wearing your pants a bit higher on the waist or tucking in a shirt can dramatically change the way your outfit presents.
Take It to the Tailor
Everything in your wardrobe could likely benefit from a trip to the tailor. Even your t-shirts. A good tailor can work wonders on your ordinary garments.
Know Your Measurements
Take the time to note your measurements. Shoulder, sleeves, chest, stomach, waist, etc. I have mine memorized at this point, but I kept them saved in a note in my phone for a while. You should, too.
If you’re shopping in person, but don’t have much time to try things on, bring a fabric tape measure with you. And if you’re shopping online, the actual measurements are often listed for each item. So knowing your preferred measurements can really help you make a purchase in confidence.
Buy Vintage
Vintage is a great way to go to pick up something really unique for a great price. It’s likely that whatever you pick up will be one-of-a-kind. I don’t know about you, but I love having pieces that no one else does.
There is a lot of quality to be found with vintage clothing as well. In general, most manufacturers of the day produced only quality clothing. Fast-fashion didn’t exist until the late 1990s. So you’re bound to end up with something that will continue to last you for many years.
Take Care of Your Clothing
It makes a difference when you take care of your clothing. Wash cloth properly, use shoe trees in your shoes, shine your shoes, avoid lint rollers, press and steam, etc.
You’ll look better and your clothing will last longer. It’s worth the extra bit of effort.
Take Care of Yourself
An iron or steamer won’t do you much good in this category, but proper washing and grooming are essential to your overall appearance and do more for your style than you may think.
Don’t go out looking like Oscar Isaac but smelling like Oscar the Grouch.
Exude Confidence
Confidence is the best way to look good when you’re out and about. Take time to work on your confidence if you’re feeling down on yourself. I think we all lose confidence in ourselves from time-to-time. I certainly do.
So it’s important to work on confidence as much as building your wardrobe. Thankfully, clothing can be a great way to boost confidence. So be sure to wear things that make you feel like a million bucks.
Seek Inspiration
Look out for style inspiration everywhere you go. Pay attention to what your favorite celebrities are wearing, but don’t dismiss what people around you might be wearing as well. Inspiration can be found anywhere.
Try to add your own flair when imitating things you’ve seen, rather than just copying exactly.
Try New Things
Give that new jacket you’ve been eyeing a spin. Or those new shoes. If you love what you see, but don’t feel like you can pull it off, it’s all the more reason to go for it. Chances are it will become a favorite item amongst your wardrobe.
Trying something new will work wonders for your style, anyway. Even if it doesn’t work out, you’ll learn something new about yourself that will guide your style down the road.
Know When to Break the Rules
When it comes down to it, style progresses primarily through the agency of the rule-breaker. So if you’re feeling naughty, go ahead. Break the rules. Show us something new and invigorating.
If you’re confident enough to break the rules, you probably have a good idea as to what things really don’t work anyway (*ahem* sneakers with suits).
Make a Fit-Pic Folder
Make a folder on your phone where you can document your outfits. The good, the bad, and the ugly. Just take a quick pic with your phone. Nothing fancy. You’ll be amazed at how much this helps.
Your style will improve a lot by implementing this practice. Plus, you’ll have a place to look if you’re having a hard time figuring out what outfit to wear on a particular day. Just pick a favorite from your folder and you’re good to go!
Try a few of these things for yourself and see how you benefit. The rules on this list are tried and true. And they won’t steer you wrong. These rules are the fun kind and will help you determine your own personal preferences. Enjoy your style journey!
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