A button-down is just a button-up featuring buttons at the collar points for fastening. This makes it more practical, less dressy, and meant for more casual environments. However, other qualities to consider include patterns, weaves, and colors. So while a solid white button-up is more formal than a solid white button-down, a ruggedly woven, brightly colored button-up isn’t as work-appropriate.
Do you use the words button-up and button-down interchangeably?
If so, two things.
First, that’s wrong—technically. Second, we all do it, so don’t feel bad.
However, a button-down and a button-up are two different garments, and, more importantly, they should be worn on different occasions.
There’s a lot of overlap, nuances, and details, though. So, here they are.
Button-Up vs Button-Down: A Difference in Formality
A button-up is typically a collared shirt featuring a placket, also called a split, down the center front, with buttons starting at the neck, and then going all the way down past the waist. It can be long-sleeved or short-sleeved, and comes in a range of weaves, patterns, and colors.
A button-down is the exact same thing, except it has small buttons at the collar points to fasten them down. As such, the collars on button-ups are often, but not always, less structured than the ones on button-downs, since the fastened collar points ensures everything stays in place.
A button-down is the more casual option, all things considered.
Remember, the more details on a garment, the more workwear-adjacent it is. Added details and features usually have practical uses, making the garment more utilitarian and less ceremonial, if you will. For example, a tweed blazer with flap pockets is less formal than a solid wool blazer with jetted pockets.
So between two very similar shirts, say Mizzen+Main’s Ellis Oxford and their Leeward Dress Shirt, you’d stick to the latter in the most formal of situations.
This is easily the best dress shirt we've tried for travel. Mizzen+Main specializes in breathable, non-iron shirts. We actually crumbled this in a ball and stuffed it in a backpack for two days and it still didn't have wrinkles.
However, there are a lot of other variables to consider.
How rugged is the weave? How detailed is the pattern, and how lively is the color? In my office, my CEO would rather I wear a solid white button-down over a bright orange button-up to an important client meeting.
Even more, many modern brands infuse their dress shirts with stretch and comfort, allowing you to wear them in more casual situations.
Let’s navigate some nuances between wearing a button-down and a button-up. Don’t worry, they’re all pretty easy to understand.
When and How to Wear a Button-Down
Since around the ’70s, in traditional, professional settings, you’d wear a button-up dress shirt with your suit Monday through Thursday, then go for your button-down on casual Friday.
Button-downs pair well with shorts during a barbecue, and they’re a staple in the Ivy League’s structured yet leisurely aesthetic. Basically, they’re like the penny loafer of the shirt world.
The idea to clasp your collar points down came about for polo players in the 1800s. They wore Oxford button-downs because they were more durable than traditional dress shirts but more breathable than the rugged work shirts they used to wear. The collar buttons ensured the collar points didn’t flap around during the match.
So, even though we wear more performance-forward tops for sports these days, this sporting origin gives button-downs a less dressy association.
Presently, many offices allow their employees to wear button-downs with their suits all week long. Relatedly, they’re also often welcome at high-end restaurants with jacket requirements and other upscale establishments.
Really, the only time I’d completely avoid wearing a button-down is in the most extremely formal situations. Or if you actually do want to look dressier from a personal taste point of view. You can’t wear a button-down with black-tie or white-tie attire. And always consult party hosts and professional higher-ups about how traditional their expected suit-and-tie requirements are.
And obviously, it’s better to be safe than sorry.
On the other end of the styling spectrum, there’s almost no casual context that a button-up would be too formal for. In fact, going for a button-down over a t-shirt in most casual situations makes your outfit look more grown-up. You might consider a button-down, jeans, and sneakers.
Many classic casual menswear items, like the button-down, come from sports, work, and military wear. As such, it looks natural in any of these contexts.
A button-down, tweed pants, boots, a Norfolk jacket, and an Irish flat cap is a classy but rugged combination. It invokes English countryside style, which is a timeless approach, especially for fall fashions.
You can also pair a button-down with workwear, such as slim cargos, a chore coat, and service boots.
If you like a military look, go for a green-toned button-down with chest pockets, like this City Flannel in Sage Heather. You can wear it with a cotton army jacket and boots. You can even wear it with dress pants and leather Oxfords if you want to inject army vibes into a dressier outfit.
The City Flannel wears like a premium dress shirt but looks like a cozy flannel. This shirt is perfect for layering in the fall with a neutral sweater or waxed jacket, especially when finished with some chinos and brown leather boots.
If I hadn’t made it clear, the button-down goes a long way. Just don’t wear one to the gym or to a white-tie banquet.
When and How to Wear a Button-Up
As mentioned, a button-up is your safest choice when it comes to a suit-and-tie situation. Even when you find yourself in a cocktail or semi-formal dress code, you really can’t go wrong with a button-up.
As dressy as button-ups are, here are a few qualities that would make one more casual:
- Thicker, more rugged weaves
- Conspicuous patterns
- Bright, loud colors
- Large decorative embroidery (However, you might have a small monogram or brand label on the chest. That’s perfectly acceptable in formal situations)
- Added details and accents in general
These characteristics reduce the shirt’s formality but not always its fanciness. That’s the main difference between a formal or professional dress code and a cocktail dress code.
Cocktail dress might require a full suit and tie, but it also welcomes a more celebratory tone. A mint green suit would work perfectly at a more formal cocktail but not at a formal business board meeting.
Can you wear a simple, solid-colored button-up in casual situations though? In my opinion, you can. A solid light blue button-up with jeans and sneakers would just be a dressier version of the same outfit but with a button-down.
It would technically be a high-low combination but not a high-contrast one. I’ve even worn button-ups with zip-ups, chinos, and boat shoes.
Dress shirts with these features are similar to that.
Would a button-down look more natural in these casual contexts? Yes. But if you prefer to inject dressiness into your more relaxed outfits, it’s not outrageous to go for a button-up over a button-down. There’s nothing wrong with taking into account your personal style when choosing between the two.
The caveat here is that many dress shirts aren’t made for comfort and mobility. So, if you wear jeans and a dress shirt at a picnic, you may not be able to participate in any impromptu flag football games.
I have a pro tip though.
Some modern brands, like Mizzen+Main, infuse their shirts with some comfort and performance stretch without compromising the visual formality. These kinds of button-ups look chic but are built as practically as most sporty button-downs.
They even have No Tuck Shirts, designed two inches shorter in the body so it hits mid-zipper. It’s basically dress shirts meant to be worn casually.
Not many brands do cool things like this with their button-ups, but there are more now than there used to be. Mizzen+Main also makes short-sleeved dress shirts that hit mid-bicep, unlike the nerdier ill-fitting short-sleeve dress shirts from the ‘90s. They make them in fun patterns and different colors.
Look for brands and shirtmakers that do unique things like this. You’ll be thankful you have them as a resource next time you’re invited to a summer party with a cocktail dress code.
Conclusion
I believe that, when in doubt, dress up rather than down. You can always take a tie or blazer off, but you can’t snap your fingers and make one appear.
I feel the same way about button-ups versus button-downs. If you’re going somewhere nice but aren’t sure how dressy it is, you really can’t go wrong with a button-up.
Still, it’s comforting to know that, realistically, 90% of modern situations will welcome a button-down too. So unless you’re literally going to a white-tie benefit, you’re not likely to deeply offend people either way.
