Design 
Quality of Materials 
Value for Money 
Craftsmanship 
Customer Service The definition of “work” and where we do it has changed. With it, so has ‘business wear’ and the shoes associated with it.
Previous paradigms dictated a leather upper, leather outsole, and a Goodyear welt taking weeks to break in.
For decades, Allen Edmonds was the pinnacle of American dress shoe manufacturing. Changing consumer preferences means the brand has had to adapt to meet the comfort, quality, and style demands without sacrificing their old-world craftsmanship.
Bringing a heritage brand into the modern age is a tricky maneuver, so to see if Allen Edmonds performs it with grace, I tested three models: the classic Randolph Bit Loafer, modern Oliver Slip-on Stretch-lace Sneaker, and the Carson Lace-up Hybrid Derby. We’ll cover styling, fit, comfort, and materials, and wrap up with my thoughts on what works and what doesn’t.
What Is Allen Edmonds?
In the 1920s, Wisconsin-based cobbler Elbert Allen started making shoes just outside Milwaukee. They sold pairs to not only businessmen but to the US Army in WWII.
Throughout the middle of the 20th century, Allen Edmonds earned a sterling reputation as one of the premier American shoemakers. But, in the latter half of the century, customers began to demand low prices and easy access.
No longer would one pair of black and one pair of brown shoes suffice. You needed a pair for every day of the week, and in outrageous (and synthetic) combinations. Furthermore, men’s dress shoe popularity waned towards the end of the 20th century. The tech revolution, grunge rock, and a host of other factors combined to affect how men got dressed for work.
Allen Edmonds resisted the winds of change. When other manufacturers outsourced production, AE stayed the course. While above 90% of American shoemakers moved production overseas, most of their shoes are manufactured in Port Washington, Wisconsin to this day.
Today, the brand stays true to its classic roots while adapting to the demands of modern work culture, offering a range of loafers and business casual shoes.
Not only that, but Allen Edmonds maintains some top-tier services to fans of their brand such as in-house refurbishing, shoe customization, and trunk shows where customers can experience the brand up close while shopping limited-release drops.
Things to Consider Before Buying
Most Allen Edmonds shoes are priced between $300 and $500, reflecting their fine materials and made-in-USA craftsmanship.
For most guys, this makes them a serious investment. If your day-to-day style doesn’t lean formal or your work abides by a strict business-casual dress code, the cost might feel steep if you’re just dipping your toes into formalwear.
With a precise range of sizes and widths, Allen Edmonds also ensures a tailored fit, but this level of customization can make finding your perfect size a bit tricky if you aren’t near one of their 60+ stores in the US. Fortunately, the brand offers free returns, so being able to snag a multi-shoe order in different sizes, keep the winner, and return the ill-fitting pairs is super convenient.
My Hands-On Review
The Randolph Bit Loafer
Styling
Allen Edmonds is best known for dress shoes, so we’ll start with the dressiest of the bunch.
The Randolph Bit Loafer comes in a whopping 10 colorways, from a classic black to a unique white suede. Since I don’t wear much black in my wardrobe, brown was the obvious choice. While I did try on—and liked—the espresso smooth leather, I ultimately went with a nappier suede option. I favor softer tailoring rather than structured suits, so it works a little better with my style.
The key word here is proportion. It’s a balanced loafer.
If that sounds a bit too “generic” a description, bear with me. A loafer is, at the core, a pretty relaxed, conservative shoe. Brands try to reinvent the wheel when they really shouldn’t. They’ll roll out a long, aggressive toe box or throw on an oversized, dandyish tassel. It makes it harder to style.
Here, the last is a little long, but not exaggerated or clown-like. It makes for a balanced look on the foot.
The bit—the defining characteristic of this shoe—is also of a good size. Again, it’s proportionate to the dimensions of the shoe. I don’t mind the brass buckle on my suede model. While my jewelry (watches, wedding band, etc.) is all silver or white gold, I don’t see an issue with mixing metals on, say, a belt buckle and a shoe buckle.
Allen Edmonds also offers the Randolph Bit Loafer in a lighter, “wheat” suede and a darker “hunting green.” I’d like to see a model somewhere between the light and darker browns—perhaps a tobacco. Given the quality of skins Allen Edmonds is known to get, it could be really good.
Materials and Construction
I’ve found this shoe to be of great quality.
At over $400, it’s on the higher end of the price spectrum. But, you’re getting a pleasantly nappy suede.
I’ve run my fingers across it more than perhaps I should. The toe box is reinforced and structured, which gives shape to the shoe. It’s rather pliable through the waist, helping the shoe move with my feet. Then, it’s reinforced against the heel, helping to secure the foot into the shoe.
The outsole, like many of Allen Edmonds’ shoes, is Goodyear welted. The brand calls it a ‘bench welt’, but it’s more a variation on the 360º welting process. This makes for a stable shoe that is still pretty flexible. It will take some time to break in, but they can be recrafted when the soles wear down.
You’re also getting a Poron foam insole that will mold to the shape of the foot over time. It’ll be a little snug at first, but give it a bit. The outsole, on the other hand, is leather with a rubber heel. It will slip a bit at first, especially if you walk on smooth floors.
Fit, Sizing, and Break-in Period
I measure somewhere between 10 and 10.5B on a Brannock device. In many “D” width shoes I have to size down to a 9.5 to work around my narrow, fairly flat foot. But, Allen Edmonds offers these in B, D, E, and EEE widths to accommodate a range of feet.
A 10D is wearable and is okay in width, but a 9.5 is the better fit for this shoe on my foot. It’s not perfect, but some break-in time is going well. And, if the sample shoe I tried on in the shop is any indication of how the suede will loosen it, it’s a good sign.
If you’ve got a narrow foot, you can try a B width. But, even on you, it might be too snug. If you wear a standard D-width shoe, though, you shouldn’t have an issue taking your regular size. All in all, the Randolph Bit Loafer is a fantastically useful shoe. Full retail may be a little steep, price-wise. But, if you’re looking for a Goodyear welted shoe without a bulky sole, this is the ticket.
This loafer is all about balance—classic proportions, versatile style, and great materials. The fit is snug, especially for narrow feet, so sizing might take some trial and error. With a Goodyear welt, solid construction, and respectable durability—it’s a sharp loafer that holds its own.
The Oliver Slip-On Stretch-lace Sneaker
Styling
The Oliver Slip-on Stretch-lace Sneaker is a twist on a classic low-top sneaker. It rides on a slightly thicker outsole and wears far chunkier than, say, my Common Projects Achilles Low. But, they’re far from boat-like, and I’d take these over a chunky ‘dad’ sneaker any day of the week.
I appreciate the colorway. It’s not too dark, not too light—just right. The suede is soft and a little nappy, but nothing too aggressive. It’s a fantastic shoe to style with a pair of jeans on a grocery run. Or, if you’re me, bringing my kids around to the park.
The major ‘party trick’ of the Oliver is their hidden lacing system. This is, in fact, a slip-on. And, it’s one of the better ones I’ve seen. This makes it especially easy to put on if you’re me running to get my oldest to the bus stop in the morning. Or, if you’re walking through security at an airport.
Materials and Construction
The suede here is less plush than the Randolph, which is expected of this style of shoe. But, the laces are sturdy, meaning you’ll be able to pull them on and off hundreds of times without issue.
The insole is highly padded, leather-wrapped foam with a gel insert at the heel. This makes for great shock absorption walking around town. If, however, you’d like to use your own insert or you wear orthotics, you can also do that.
The outsole is cemented, which means it can’t be replaced the way a welted one can. But, it’s so thick that I have minimal doubts of a 1-2 year lifespan.
Fit, Sizing, and Break-in Time
Both Allen Edmonds’ product descriptions and the internet at large call this a roomy shoe. I absolutely agree.
The volume on the last is quite generous. It’s not the best for folks like me with narrow, flat feet. But, if you’re looking for a good sneaker for a wide foot, this might be right up your alley. And, if you really have a wide foot, they’re available in an EEE size.
That said, I found them to run true to a traditional sneaker length-wise. I take a 10.5 in many athletic sneakers, and this is the right length for me here. A 10 didn’t offer much less in the way of volume, and was too short in the toe box for my foot.
Regardless, the Oliver Slip-on Stretch-lace Sneaker has a fantastically comfortable footbed. The gel insert feels very nice against my heel and makes it far easier to chase my one-year-old around. At almost $330 retail, it’s awfully expensive for a sneaker. But, since it can adapt to any casual outfit, it certainly has a lower cost per wear than some of my more eccentric footwear options.
It’s stockier than a sleek sneaker but far from clunky, with a soft suede upper and a hidden lacing system that makes it an easy slip-on. The padded insole with a gel heel insert adds serious comfort, though it’s definitely roomier and better suited for wider feet. At $330, it’s an investment, but a well-made one.
The Carson Lace-up Hybrid Derby
Styling
Like it or not, hybrid dress shoes are perhaps the fastest-growing category of shoes in all of menswear.
They have the upper of a dress shoe but the sole of a running shoe. Many, if not all, have a padded, trainer-like insert to soften the ride even more. Allen Edmonds dipped their toe into this subcategory with the Carson Lace-up Hybrid Derby.
I’ll admit it out front: I’m not a hybrid dress shoe kind of guy. But, you might be. So who am I, your humble internet wordsmith and menswear crash
See, there are some that trend too far into, well, trends, for my liking. Electric blue or bright yellow outsoles—an ultra chunky lug sole—it’s just too much. This, in the ‘antique bronze’ colorway, embraces the style of the shoe but still exercises restraint.
The upper shows some antiquing and faux patina. The outsole, smartly, isn’t a true white. More of a cream, really. That makes for a more seamless (excuse the pun) transition from darker to lighter tones across the shoe.
Materials and Construction
As we’ve mentioned, Allen Edmonds still makes the majority of their dress shoes in America. But, there are some outsourced lines. This pair, in fact, is made through the up-and-coming dress shoe and boot trade in India. I’ve had a few pairs from India and have found their construction to be excellent. These are no different.
The upper isn’t as premium as the Randoph Bit Loafer. The leather is soft enough, but it is coated to make it perhaps shinier than I’d like. I’d prefer to add the shine myself over time, layer by layer, and develop a patina unique to my shoes.
The outsole is made from a flexible rubber that provides good traction as I move. It is thick, but not comically so. This isn’t a Margom or other dense rubber sole, so it makes for an ultralight feel on the foot.
Fit, Sizing, and Break-in Time
Like the Randolph Bit Loafer, I took a 9.5D, sizing down to work around my narrow foot. If you’ve got a standard-width foot, your normal dress shoe size should be fine. However, Allen Edmonds’ website suggests sizing up. So, if you’re in between, either go into a shop or see if you can order two.
I found the fit to work like most derby shoes. The toe box is rather voluminous, but not bulky. I’d prefer a little more shape to the last and especially through the waist. However, I recognize this isn’t quite the intention here, so I suppose it is what it is.
The break-in time, though, is minimal. The ultra-soft foam insole molds to the foot quickly. But, I wouldn’t break these out of the box and then run immediately to a day-long conference.
All in all, the Carson Lace-up Hybrid Derby isn’t quite my style. However, I can appreciate changing consumer preferences and applaud Allen Edmonds for recognizing where the market is trending without trying to lead it.
The Carson Lace-up Hybrid Derby does a great job merging dressy style with sneaker-level comfort. The flexible rubber sole is lightweight and adds great traction. Sizing felt true for most feet, and the minimal break-in time is a plus. If you’re into hybrids, this one’s worth considering.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
Reviews across the internet run the gamut. Shoe snobs seem to prefer their models made here in the USA over the ones manufactured overseas.
It’s important to note that people rarely take the time out to give a compliment. They reach out to complain. So, perhaps overtly negative reviews are worth taking with a grain of salt.
However, reviews on their product are largely positive. Reviewers comment on the comfort, fit, and quality of their materials.
I also saw a number of reviews that cheered Allen Edmonds’ repair services and Goodyear welts during a time when shoe brands would steer you towards a replacement instead of repairing the ones you have.
What I Like
- With a reinforced toe box and heel and a pliable waist, the Randolph Bit Loafer moves easily with my foot.
- The Randolph’s welted sole gives it a much longer lifespan than any of the unrepairable dress shoes I own.
- The Oliver Slip-on Stretch-lace Sneaker’s lacing system is borderline genius for airports—or parents juggling items going in and out of the house.
- Far sleeker than a “dad sneaker,” the Oliver still feels robust with a leather-wrapped insole and sturdy upper.
- While it’s not my style, the Carson Lace-up Hybrid Derby’s faux patina is a nice touch and the rubber outsole provides good traction and lightweight comfort.
What I Don’t Like
- The Carson is a comfortable and well-made shoe, but it’s hard to style.
- At $325, the Oliver is quite expensive for a sneaker, especially when compared to welted options that offer better longevity.
Who Is Allen Edmonds for?
Allen Edmonds is still, I think, for the upper middle-market of consumers. They’ve struck out with cheap stuff and want to get something that will last. Indeed, the dress shoes will. They’re well constructed, and the styling is classic and versatile.
Allen Edmonds recognizes, though, that the customer base is changing. With what we wear to work becoming less formal, the brand has had to adapt. They’ve moved into sneakers, bolder styles, and hybrid dress shoes. This opens a door for new customers looking for a fresh twist on a classic American label.
The Verdict
American shoemaking simply isn’t what it used to be. The drive for the bottom line and changing consumer preferences led to a slow, steady drip of dress shoes being offshored for cheaper, inferior products. That’s a shame.
I applaud Allen Edmonds for keeping at least most of their dress production in Port Washington. Would I like to see all the models still made there? Yes, I would. But, pulling on an Allen Edmonds dress shoe was something I aspired to do early in my career. I still get some joy slipping into the first pair I got years ago. I get a spark from the Randolph Bit Loafer, too.
Is Allen Edmonds still worth it? If you like a well-made pair of dress shoes, yes. While they are pricey at full retail, bi-annuals have made the brand more accessible. And, since here at The Adult Man, we believe in accessible style, it just might be worth it.
Allen Edmonds does a solid job combining classic craftsmanship with modern touches. For me, the Randolph is the star—it’s versatile, and the suede feels amazing. The Oliver is incredibly comfortable, and I love the hidden lace system, even if it’s on the pricier side for a sneaker. Hybrid dress shoes aren’t really my thing, but I can see the Carson working for guys who want to try something different.
