Design 
Quality of Materials 
Value for Money 
Craftsmanship 
Customer Service With the rise of ‘Athletic’ dress shirts and ‘Performance’ suits, it’s gotten harder to tell where one dress code begins and another ends.
Amberjack has made quite the splash with a new version of a ‘hybrid’ dress shoe.
I spent some time with their Original dress shoe and Boot to learn a little more about their comfort-forward footwear.
In this review, I’ll cover each shoe, discussing what worked, what didn’t, and why, as comfortable as they are, there are more versatile options for professionals who want to both look and feel good in their footwear.
What Is Amberjack?
Amberjack is a direct-to consumer company offering a decidedly different kind of dress shoe.
The shoe has the upper of a traditional dress model, but rides on a soft rubber outsole. Most interestingly, the shoes and boots have the insole of a running shoe. In theory, this should make for a shoe that looks and feels good.
Gathering a number of strategic, smart partners, including former designers for Allen Edmonds and product development and footwear technology for Adidas and Cole Haan, Amberjack Founder John Peters launched to the public in late 2020 to drag dress shoes into the 21st century.
Unfortunately for the world, but fortunately for timing, the COVID-19 pandemic dramatically changed the way we dress almost literally overnight. Perhaps as a result, the company had a waitlist of over 10,000 when they launched.
As many have returned to offices, the paradigm for how we dress for business has changed once again-perhaps permanently. Fits are more relaxed. ‘Comfort’ is more of a buzzword than almost ever before.
Not lost in all this is a commitment to sustainability and ethical production. The produces in an eco-friendly, fair-wage factory in Portugal, uses sustainably-raised full-grain leather from LWG-rated tanneries, and carbon-neutral shipping.
Star quarterback investors. Commitment to sustainability. A smart, strategic team behind everything. Great timing to meet demand for a new kind of footwear. That’s all well and good. But, how do Amberjack’s Original dress shoe and Boot stack up in real-world situations?
Things to Consider Before Buying
Before diving in, let’s consider a few criteria.
First, for me, is comfort. A shoe has to be comfortable to wear for at least as long as a work day. If it’s not, you’ll find excuses to not wear it and it will collect dust in your closet.
Second, it has to be versatile and easy to style for the intended purpose. Bright blue tassel loafers are interesting, yes, but hard to style in a business environment.
Third, materials have to be reasonably good for the price. In the five-odd years I’ve been writing about menswear and footwear, I’ve been able to
Though sometimes I do miss the mark and I’ve not been formally educated in textiles, I’d like to think I’m a reasonable judge of materials and what you’re likely to get at a certain price. Fourth, then, is value for money. Is it worth what you’re paying for?
My Hands-On Review
The Original
First Impressions
I’m pleased by how minimal the packaging is. Nothing superfluous. Since I tend to keep my shoes in boxes when not wearing them, less material means less space in my closet. But, even if I didn’t, sustainable packaging is always a plus.
Many ‘hybrid’ dress shoes, at least the ones I’m familiar with, have a chunky, clunky sole. Sometimes in a funky colourway. The concept, particularly in the Original, is definitely ‘inspired’ by the Cole Haan LunarGrand. But, it’s surprisingly streamlined and makes for a relatively pleasing silhouette. Despite this, it’s hard to shake the thought of orthotic footwear.
Sole
Speaking of the LunarGrand, many of those shoes are, literally, a dress shoe with a trainer sole attached. This isn’t quite that. The rubber tread feels solid enough. It’s not the rigidity of British Dainite, perhaps. But, it’s much lighter on the foot-and much lighter on the wallet.
This, unless many direct-to-consumer brands at this price point, is a glued/cemented sole. Of course, welting would have been next-to-impossible given the construction and overall purpose. While the sole feels durable enough, it’s worth noting it can’t be resoled the way most fine leather dress shoes can.
Upper Materials and Construction Quality
The suede upper is made with water-repellent Italian suede. It’s pleasantly soft and pliable, and pretty nappy. I’d call it about on-par with other shoes I’ve encountered in this price point. But, it’s easier to do suede than smooth leather, which is why I wanted to try some in each material.
The lining is sheepskin and feels very much like a slipper. There’s a touch of a textured heel, which is always a nice design feature if you’re prone to slippage. Parts of the inner lining are perforated. While it is a useful design feature to regulate airflow, I’m not entirely sold on the concept. If anything, it detracts from the overall appearance of the shoe.
Fit and Sizing
Amberjack say their dress shoes run true-to-size. That’s largely true for medium, “D” width feet. So, If you measure a 10D on a Brannock device, you should get a pretty good fit. The company also offers wide sizing, which is especially nice. If you tend to waffle between sizes, though, take the smaller of the two.
I’ve got quite a narrow foot, so even though I measure just over a 10B on a Brannock, sizing down is a frequent necessity in most direct-to-consumer brands. I guessed I’d need a 9.5 here.
The fit is great out of the box. The flexibIe upper hugs my foot nicely. There’s no gapping at the mouth of the shoe- a frequent issue for those of us with flat feet. There’s plenty of room at the front and in the toe box- even with the insert in.
Break-in Period
Almost none. These were comfortable out of the box. The foam insole (supposedly modelled after Adidas’ Boost) does, quite literally, feel like a running shoe. Amberjack says it’s ‘heat activated.’ The upper bends with you at just the right flex points and snaps right back. That’s something a pair of welted shoes would take months to be able to do, if at all.
Buy The Original If…
If you value comfort above anything else in your business wardrobe, buy the Original. They are pretty darn comfortable. The upper, while not the most fantastic material for the price, is pretty good. I think the outsole should hold up okay as well, even if you can’t replace it.
You should also consider the Original if you put the ‘casual’ in business casual. During my brief stint working at a consulting firm, I was surrounded by smart young people who, almost invariably, wore a uniform of Brooks Brothers button-downs, chinos, and quilted/ puffer vests. If this is you, you might consider it.
Buy them, as well, if you’d like a less, um, loud version of a Cole Haan LunarGrand. They’ll probably be just as comfortable and sit around the same price point. But, as I’ll get to below, there are reasons you should probably avoid this kind of shoe.
Don’t Buy The Original If…
You find yourself in a situation where you need a proper dress shoe.
For me, it starts with the accent styling on the outsole of many models beyond the one I tried. In my mind, it’s a sign of early workforce twenty-somethings who’ve never been properly fit for a good pair of dress shoes and think they’re uncomfortable.
Or, an older gent (the Cole Haan LunarGrand I see at work happy hours) trying it because ‘that’s what kids these days are wearing.’ It’s, as another friend of mine puts it perfectly, a dress shoe mullet.
Both commit what Brian Sacawa, one of my mentors as both a menswear enthusiast and a writer, identifies as an unavoidable menswear sin: trying too hard. It happens to all of us, especially those newer to style.
I still fall into the trap from time to time. Granted, this is a little different than someone showing up on Monday with a waistcoat, bow tie, pocket watch, and a bowler hat after wearing nothing but chinos and polos for three months straight, but I think the point still stands.
I can understand the appeal for some. And, to be fair to Amberjack, this is one of the better-looking versions of this style. But, if you’d like comfort and styling, there are better options out there.
The lining is sheepskin and feels very much like a slipper. There’s a touch of a textured heel, which is always a nice design feature if you’re prone to slippage. If you value comfort above anything else in your business wardrobe, buy the Original.
The Boot
Sole
The sole on the Chestnut Boot is the same as on the Original. While my tester model, the Chestnut, has the annoying accent sole, there are opportunities to avoid this in the ‘midnight’ and ‘obsidian’ colorways.
This is, like in the Original, a glued/cemented sole. While this makes for a streamlined look, it’s worth reiterating it likely can’t be replaced.
Upper Materials and Construction Quality
This is where the Boot breaks down for me. I wrote above how the suede was done pretty well- soft, nappy, and pliable. But, the Boot leather just isn’t as good, especially compared to those from Thursday or Beckett Simonon retailing for roughly the same price.
While it is, according to the site’s description, made with Grade A full-grain leather, the actual material feels a bit…manufactured. There’s not that wonderful, rich leather scent I’d expect when opening the box. Even at this price point, I’d expect a little more depth and character to the leather. The somewhat uniform character, unfortunately, gives the impression of a cheaper boot.
Fit and Sizing
I’m a 9.5 in most direct-to-consumer boots (Thursday and Beckett Simonon, for example), and we nailed the sizing here. The lower volume footbed makes for an excellent fit on my low-arched, narrow foot.
The heel is a touch more narrow than some of my other boots, which is quite welcome. I don’t have to wear boot socks at all. Indeed, this fits more like a Balmoral-style dress boot than a traditional, rugged work-boot
Break-in Period
Like in the dress shoes, almost none. These were comfortable out of the box.
I think having a removable insole in a ‘comfort-focused’ boot could be a good thing. One of the more significant issues I (and a number of others) have had with my Thursday boots is the way the EVA-foam midsole compresses over 6-8 months of wear and results in a harder ride. I see no reason these wouldn’t hold up.
And, even if they don’t, they can be recycled and replaced.
Buy The Boot If…
You should consider the Amberjack Boot if comfort is, hands-down, your number one priority. There’s, obviously, something to be said here. You could have a pair of $1000+ Edward Green boots. But, if they hurt your feet, they’ll just hurt your wallet and collect dust in your closet. The Amberjack Boot is fantastically comfortable. I could walk right out the door and go for a significant walk in these things.
You should consider the Boot if you’re looking for a streamlined silhouette. These aren’t bulky, work-style boots. As a shorter, slimmer guy with outsized, but narrow, feet compared to my 5’7.5” frame, I can appreciate it.
Don’t Buy The Boot If…
You value an exterior with top-notch materials for the price. I own 3-4 pairs of boots in this price range and these aren’t really on the same level.
The upper, while not necessarily thin, feels light and plasticky. If I stretch a bit, I can see the appeal of an ultralight boot. It’s supposed to be a hybrid of a boot and a sneaker, after all. But, it’s just not something I, personally, look for in a boot.
The glued sole also contributes to my opinion. While I understand a welted or stitched sole probably wasn’t possible, I would like a more easily resole-able boot, especially if it’s one I’m going to have for the next eight or nine years…or more.
Also avoid the Boot if styling is what you value. And since you’re here reading this piece, I’d gather you would. I said at the outset it’s really hard to make a pair of ‘hybrid’ style dress shoes or boots look good. I’m okay with a rubber crepe sole on, say, a Red Wing boot. But for me, personally, the Amberjack Boot styling isn’t what I’d look for in a versatile wardrobe.
The Amberjack Boot is fantastically comfortable. I could walk right out the door and go for a significant walk in these things. These aren’t bulky, work-style boots. As a shorter, slimmer guy with outsized, but narrow, feet compared to my 5’7.5” frame, I can appreciate it.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
Amberjack has been getting some play around the Internet. Reviews from heir on-page reviews seem largely favorable.
‘Comfort’ is a recurring theme. If I’ve not mentioned it enough already, other folks in the boot-o-sphere have as well.
Comments around the contrasting midsole are mixed. Some think it’s a funky touch that leans into the changing world of work. Others, like me, aren’t too keen on it.
Amberjack Alternatives
The marketplace for direct-to-consumer shoes and boots between $180 and $210 is pretty saturated. But, very few have proprietary comfort-based insoles and the amount of tech behind them
Wolf & Shepherd
A higher priced version of Amberjack. Wolf & Shepherd offers some pretty radical designs, with the pro-athlete parallel of NBA legend (and surprisingly decent footballer) Steve Nash.
They’re also made in Portugal. While I’m not fan of the styling of many of the models, the Monaco loafer could be a great option.
Dress-shoe uppers, sneaker-like soles: a match made in comfortable heaven. There's serious padding in the insole so you can easily march for miles in these bad boys.
Thursday Boot Company
An Internet darling, Thursday Boot Company is one of the “OGs” in the direct-to-consumer footwear space. I’ve had a pair of their Captain boots for a number of years and they’ve held up very well.
I’d consider the leather and raw materials superior to Amberjack by quite a wide margin. But, the EVA ‘comfort strip’ seems to wear down after eight to 12 months of wear and, while the ride isn’t uncomfortable, Amberjack’s insert is excellent in comparison. Made in both Mexico and the United States.
The Thursday Boots Captain is an excellent deal. The leather is similar to Horween's Chromexcel, so it has a subtle shine and plenty of rugged durability. When (if?) these ever wear out, I’ll be picking them up again.
Beckett Simonon
Beckett Simonon, is, in my view, one of strongest offerings in the direct-to-consumer space. The quality of construction is excellent, and the vegetable tanned Vachetta leather punches far above the price would suggest. Their Bolton model is my favorite—pure class.
With discount codes, you can have many of the dress shoe models for the same price as Amberjack, and with the same corporate and social responsibilities. Made in Colombia.
For made-to-order, hand-crafted quality at a fraction of the cost, look no further than Beckett Simonon’s Bolton Chelseas. Premium construction materials and an almond-shaped toe box elevate these boots above the vast majority of the competition.
My Thoughts Overall
What I Like
- These are genuinely comfortable shoes and boots. As a dad of two, there are days I just want to pull something on and not think too much about it, prioritising comfort over anything else.
- Amberjack delivers on the comfort factor. The insole is cushy and genuinely feels like a running shoe. I think it’ll hold up pretty well over time.
- The Original’s water-repellent suede upper feels luxurious and easier to maintain than shiny-leather options.
- I think the grade A full-grain leather on the Boot is a fanstastic value at this price point.
- The low-arch footbed didn’t on the Boot didn’t require any uncomfortable acclimation from my flat feet.
What I Don’t Like
- As someone whose ‘day job’ attire ranges from jeans and sneakers to coat and tie, the hybrid aesthetic can be difficult to style.
- I try to extend the life of my footwear as much as possible, and a glued soles prevent a potential re-sole in the future.
Who Is Amberjack For?
If you’re in a position where you’d like orthotics in your dress shoes but don’t want to get to custom fit, Amberjack is a great option if you’ve also got an ultra-casual style but don’t like wearing sneakers, this is a decent option too. Or, if you’re just getting into dress shoes and want to dip your toe in, you could consider it.
The Verdict
It’s a competitive world out there. Seemingly every other month a shoe brand starts up. I applaud Amberjack for trying something different. They’ve made a fantastically comfortable shoe, have gathered a dedicated and intelligent team, and clearly have had some success.
But, I have a hard time recommending the brand, right now, on quality and value for money. The suede in the Original is much better than the smooth leather in the Boot; but lesser-quality suede often is. For not much more money, however, you can get, in my opinion, far better materials with Beckett Simonon or Thursday, without sacrificing much at all in comfort.
Perhaps it’s just my aesthetic, but I also have a hard time getting behind the styling. For me, it’s still a dress shoe mullet and doesn’t quite know whether it should be dressed up or down.
For now, then, I’ll stick with the classics.
Amberjack is trying to change the dress shoe game with one that really feels like you’re wearing a sneaker. As comfortable as they are and this is probably the best take I’ve seen on the them, the ‘hybrid’ dress shoe itself isn’t one I’m confident recommending to someone looking to improve their styling.
