Your clothing is one of the first things people notice when passing you on the street or meeting you for the first time.
It’s often the first impression anyone will have of you.
It’s very important that your clothing fits properly so that the message you’re conveying is one of self-confidence, self-care, and attention to detail.
Having worked as a menswear consultant and custom clothier for over five years, I have learned a lot about the way things should fit.
Some fit options are personal preference. While others are more of a hard, fast rule.
Sit back, and I’ll tell you everything I think you should know about how your clothing should fit.
The Suit
If there’s one outfit in your closet that needs to fit properly, it’s your suit. There’s no exception. A well-fitting suit is a staple piece for any man’s wardrobe.
Unfortunately, poorly fitting suits are extremely common. In my experience, 90-95% of men are’nt wearing suits that fit the way they should. Part of that is the area in which I live. But it’s a common problem no matter where you go.
If this is you, it’s not likely your fault. The problem is mass-marketing and salesmen who want a commission, but don’t know much about what they are selling. Which means you aren’t getting proper information.
So the suit is the best place to start on this list. And the rules for the suit apply just as well to your casual items, although you’ll have more freedom there.
There are things you need to look out for when buying a suit. Some things can be altered, while other things can’t or aren’t worth the cost.
It’s important if you’re buying off-the-rack to get as close as possible on fit prior to alterations. Here’s what to look out for:
Jacket
Shoulder
The first thing to look out for on a jacket is that the shoulder fits right. The point where the sleeve meets the shoulder of the jacket should hit at your shoulder bone or just past it, depending on your build.
There should not be excessive overhang or bunching of fabric in this area. The sleeve should fall cleanly from the shoulder when standing relaxed with your arms by your side.
Depending on your build, you may need to look for jackets made with a “natural” shoulder. The natural shoulder has no padding and will allow the sleeve to drape nicely even if you’re someone with broad, muscular, or sloping shoulders.
The shoulder is an extremely difficult area to adjust on a jacket. Most tailors won’t do it. And if they will, it usually costs more than it’s worth. So make sure the shoulders fit correctly before moving on.
Length
The second thing to look out for on a jacket is that the overall length is correct. A jacket should cover your butt in the back and will usually rest at about your middle thumb knuckle in the front.
Many jackets these days are cut much too short. It’s trendy and it saves manufacturers a lot of material. Don’t fall for this trend. The longer jacket is timeless and will always reign superior.
The jackets can’t be lengthened. So make sure to get the length right from the beginning.
Button Placement
The third thing to look out for on the jacket is the button placement. Most jackets these days are two-button and single-breasted. The top button of a two-button jacket should sit near your natural waist.
For most people, this will be the narrowest portion of your torso. Having the button fastened there will give you the proper silhouette as well as allow the jacket to drape properly over the chest.
When the jacket drapes properly, note that the collar of the jacket should rest against the collar of your shirt. There shouldn’t be any gap between the shirt and jacket collar.
Having the button too high (a common problem with ready-to-wear suits) results in “popping” at the chest, an unflattering silhouette, pulling at the button area, and an overall look of wearing a suit that’s entirely the wrong size.
Note: Never fasten the bottom button of your jacket. And if you’re wearing a three-button jacket, the middle button should be the one that sits at your natural waist. The top button on a three-button suit can be worn fastened or unfastened.
Sleeve Length
The fourth area to pay attention to on a jacket is the sleeves. A jacket sleeve has a huge effect on how you appear proportionately.
Too short, and you’ll look like you’re wearing your younger brother’s suit. Too long, and now you’re suddenly wearing your grandpa’s.
Getting the balance right on a sleeve can make the whole suit. Where getting it wrong can completely demolish the intended effect of the classic ensemble.
A jacket sleeve should hit right about at the wrist bone. Between one-quarter and one inch of shirt cuff should protrude past the end of the jacket sleeve.
A jacket sleeve can be altered pretty easily. But you don’t want to have to shorten or lengthen by more than about one and a half inches, if possible.
Keep in mind that “surgeon’s” cuffs (cuffs with functioning buttons) are not able to be adjusted in the way a standard cuff is. So if you think you’ll need the sleeve adjusted, opt for a suit or jacket with buttons that are sewn through.
Taper
Overall, your jacket should taper enough at the mid-section to distinguish your chest from your waist. It’s something to watch for, but a tailor can easily bring in (or let out) the jacket waist to accommodate your build.
It should never be tight enough that the fabric pulls, creating a distinct ‘x’ where the button fastens. Beyond that, it’s up to you how tight or loose you’d like to wear it.
Trousers
Trousers are often worn incorrectly as well. I see nearly as many issues with them as I see with jackets when men around me wear suits.
The most common problems I see are low-rise waistbands and overly tight legs.
Rise
Cheap suits almost always feature low-rise waistbands on the trousers, as it’s a good way to save cost on material (similar to the jacket length issue discussed above).
In my opinion, all types of pants look best with a higher rise, meaning they are worn higher on the waist. However, if you’re not a fan of high-waisted pants, at least consider it for your suit’s trousers.
A suit is meant to create a smooth, unbroken silhouette from head to toe. That’s why a suit is only a suit when the jacket and trouser fabrics match.
When trousers are worn too low on the waist, chances are your shirt and tie will protrude from the space left between the trouser’s waist and the jacket’s button.
That is a catastrophe that will completely break the clean silhouette a suit is meant to give you.
Wearing the trousers higher on your waist will allow them to sit near where the jacket button fastens, eliminating the gap created by the lower-rise alternative.
In addition, this helps your shirt remain tucked in and will eliminate any unflattering overhang your shirt might present with lower-rise trousers.
A higher rise also allows for the suit’s fabric to drape the way it’s meant to. It will flatter you a whole lot more when your clothing drapes properly.
Leg-Room
The other issue I mentioned is a fit that’s too tight. Gone are the days of skinny jeans, so why are we still seeing skinny-fit trousers?
A fit at that level of squeeze is another way to ensure your fabric is not draping properly. You can still wear a much slimmer pair of trousers while maintaining a proper amount of movement in the fabric.
Usually, for a very slim fit, you’ll still want about 1.5 inches of room around your thighs and calves.
Break
The “break” in a trouser is basically the length and is determined by the amount of fabric that rests on the top of your shoe. There are four main types of pant breaks: No break, quarter break, half break, and full break.
No Break
No break means that the pants end short, with no fabric touching the top of your shoe. No break is a more aggressive, fashion-forward look and works best on taller, slimmer guys.
If you like a very tapered pant leg, stick to “no break.” This is because your pants should be wide enough at the opening to at least touch the tongue of your shoe if a break is desired.
Quarter Break
A quarter break allows the fabric to rest lightly against the top of the shoe. The fabric will kiss the shoe and a slight crease in the fabric will be visible.
A quarter break is a great go-to if you like the idea of no break, but want to avoid being too trendy.
It’s modern, but also relatively timeless and works best on slim and average-build guys.
Half Break
A half break is what I would recommend if you want a classic, timeless silhouette that always looks good.
A half break allows more fabric to crease on the top of the shoe. Remember to keep the opening of your pant leg in mind, as a leg with too much of a taper will not look right with a half or full break.
The half break works well for all build types and situations. It’s a great place to start if you’re not sure what will look best on you.
Full Break
The full break is a classic, vintage style that only works when the opening of the pant trouser is much wider than is needed for the previous break styles.
The full break allows the fabric to drape over the shoe enough that the fabric fully creases in front. This look is suited for older gentlemen and those who want to showcase a vintage-inspired silhouette.
It is also a good option for bigger guys as it keeps the outfit’s proportions properly in line.
Waistcoat/Vest
If you opt for a waistcoat, make sure it’s long enough to cover the waistband of your trousers. Waistcoats that don’t extend long enough are all-too-common.
A waistcoat should also fit very close to the body.
Shirt
Many shirts are also too slim-fitting. A shirt should be comfortable without relying on athletic, stretchy material for movement.
If your shirt fits properly in the following key areas, the rest of the shirt can fit much looser while still providing you with a beautiful silhouette.
Shoulder
The way the shoulder fits on your shirt is very important to the overall look you present when wearing it. It’s usually the part of the shirt that most dictates whether or not the shirt looks well-made and properly fitting.
A shirt’s shoulder should sit right where the arm starts at the shoulder bone. If your shoulders are muscular and broad, or rounded and sloping, you may need the seam to extend slightly past the shoulder bone.
This helps ensure there’s enough room across the back of the shirt for movement and comfort.
Neck
It is extremely important that the neck of your shirt fits properly.
Under a suit jacket, the collar is the main part of the shirt that shows. It frames your face. This means that an ill-fitting collar can ruin an otherwise nice-looking suit. Please, don’t make this mistake!
A collar should fit close to the neck without being too tight. I don’t want you passing out from a noose-like collar.
I actually see collars that are too loose more often than I see collars that are too tight. So be wary of this. A shirt should not leave an obvious gap between the collar and your neck.
I also suggest avoiding very narrow collars like the one shown above.
When you’re buying pre-made shirts, get the collar right first. Other parts of the shirt (aside from the shoulder) can be adjusted if necessary.
Sleeve Length
Especially when worn with a suit jacket, sport coat, or blazer, the sleeve length of your shirt is key to proper proportions.
A shirt sleeve should rest at the top of your thumb knuckle with your arms relaxed at your side. The cuff should fit close to the wrist, without being overly tight.
The cuff should hold the shirt sleeve in place at the top of the thumb knuckle, which means a little extra length is acceptable. It allows for more movement in the arms but still rests correctly when relaxed.
If the cuff is too loose, a longer sleeve will fall down over the hand, causing a disconnect in the outfit’s proportions. An easy fix for this is to have a tailor move the cuff button so you can fasten the cuff closer to the wrist.
Overall Length
The shirt should be long enough to stay tucked in even with a lower-rise pair of trousers. I like my dress shirts to hit near the crotch of my trousers.
If the shirt extends past that point, the shirt can bunch up inside the crotch. This is uncomfortable and can be visible through the trousers.
If your shirt is casual and you like wearing it untucked, the length can be shorter.
Tie
The tie is a pretty simple one. When tied, the end of your tie should rest with the point near the middle of your trouser’s waistband.
I personally tie mine slightly longer than that. Especially if you wear your trousers around your natural waist, a longer length of tie is definitely acceptable.
My favorite tie knot is the four-in-hand. If you’re a shorter guy or someone with a skinny neck, all you have to do is wrap the tie around an extra time or two before finishing the knot to make sure the length is correct.
If the tie length is correct, but your tail is longer, simply tuck the tail into the waistband of your trousers. Voila.
Shoes
Shoes are interesting. You probably think front-to-back length is how a proper fit is determined.
However, there’s more to it than that. With a shoe, especially a dress shoe, the part that matters most is the ball of your foot. From side to side at the ball of your foot, the shoe should fit snugly.
If you can squeeze the side of the shoe at the ball of your foot, they are too loose. The ball of your foot should rest against the inside of the shoe.
If the ball and opposite side of your foot are uncomfortable and feeling squeezed, the shoe is too tight.
Front-to-back, your foot still shouldn’t slide. The opening and tongue of the shoe should be snug when tied. If the top fits and the sides fit, the length can actually be quite significant without feeling large.
More aggressive shoe lasts (the last is the “form” that the leather is wrapped around to create the shoe’s shape) will have more pointed toes which require extra length since they are rather narrow at the front.
Coats and Jackets
It’s important to note quickly that overcoats and other jackets (such as a chore jacket or denim jacket) should have sleeves that land near the wrist.
The coat sleeves should be long enough to cover any shirt sleeves worn beneath.
The length of the coat depends on the style. A trench coat is typically the longest style of coat, with lengths sometimes reaching as low as the ankles. Other coats such as a pea-coat or car coat will have a shorter length, usually hitting mid-thigh or higher.
Conclusion
Fit is arguably the most important aspect of each item in your wardrobe. A bad fit will really throw off an outfit. This is especially true with suiting.
Seek out inspiration, especially in your casual outfits. There are many different ways a garment can be cut that will suit you well. Look for what inspires you and fits your aesthetic. But always keep those key fit points in mind.
Enjoy the journey and accept that mistakes will happen. But the more you pay attention to and apply these concepts in your outfits, the more intentional those outfits will become. You could be the next style icon we all look up to!
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