For a long time, in film and television, the short-sleeve dress shirt was associated with nerds. And there’s absolutely nothing wrong with nerds, but let’s be real. These movie geeks were never that stylish.
I often think of Simon Pegg’s character in Shaun of the Dead. He’s a cool character, but I don’t want his wardrobe.
Fortunately, times (and fits) have changed. Sun’s out guns out doesn’t always have to mean going for a tank top.
Here’s how to look good in a short-sleeve dress shirt, for all personal styles.
Consider Where the Sleeves Hit
You want to make sure that the sleeves land somewhere around your mid-bicep area. Relatedly, make sure that it’s a close, but not tight, fit.
In fact, I think this is even more important than the shirt’s overall fit since there’s no hiding it.
If you accidentally buy a shirt with a loose body, you can always tuck it into your pants. Neatly fold the shirt slack in the back before tucking the hem in, to create cleaner lines in the front. If the shirt is too tight, you can try wearing it open with a tee underneath.
Obviously, a proper fit is by far the best option. These are just hacks to use in a pinch.
However, the main reason all of those aforementioned TV nerds looked so bad in short-sleeve dress shirts was that the sleeves were too big, long, and billowy. You don’t want the silhouette of the sleeves to angle out.
If you have bigger guns, you want the sleeves to stop mid-bicep or a smidgen below. Otherwise, it might look like you’re bursting out of the sleeve, and that’s just gauche. If you have slimmer arms, sleeves that stop in the middle or just a touch higher are most flattering.
Either way, you can’t go wrong with just sticking to the mid-bicep. But, at least you now know how to optimize the fit based on your body type.
Go for Short-Sleeve Dress Shirts with Some Stretch
I know this sounds more like practical advice than one of fashion. Adding stretch makes the shirt more comfortable, but does it affect the aesthetic?
I say yes. Remember the golden rule: You wear your clothes. You don’t let them wear you.
Many short-sleeve dress shirts are built like traditional dress shirts, which are more ceremonial and less pragmatic. If you’re wearing your short-sleeve dress shirt casually, say with shorts at a picnic, you’ll want a full range of motion.
You don’t want to miss out on any fun impromptu activities.
Even beyond that, you just can’t lounge around in a traditionally woven dress shirt, especially if it’s well-fitted—which it should be.
There aren’t a lot of shirtmakers that incorporate performance material into their traditional menswear. Or rather, there aren’t a lot that do it well.
Look into brands like Mizzen+Main. Their line of short-sleeve shirts are made with durable polyester. Beyond that, their Leeward model has 15% spandex, and their Halyard has 10% spandex. You get to choose what balance of stretch and strength you prefer.
With its hidden collar, it's like air flows right through the Halyard. You get a crisp placket and collar, but the clean look of a buttonless collar---it’s a win-win. Overall, I’m pleased with my Halyard Knit Shirt, particularly with the fabric on hot summer days.
Consider the Fit and Length of the Body
Okay, I prioritized the sleeve fit over the body, but the overall cut and silhouette are still paramount. Of course, the better the fit, the more flattering it is. Equally as important is the fact that the better the fit, the more ways you can wear the shirt (tucked, untucked, buttoned up, open with a shirt underneath, and so on).
You want the sides to be closer to your body, and you want it to drape with perfectly clean lines. You should be able to button your shirt up comfortably.
If you’re broader in the midsection, make sure the buttons don’t pull apart there, no matter what position you’re in or no matter what movement you’re doing. Same thing if you’re broader in the chest area.
If you want to wear your shirt untucked, it should fall anywhere from an inch and a half down your pant zipper. Any longer, and you should stick to tucking the shirt in. Or, of course, you can get the shirt tailored. Any shorter, and you have the wrong length.
Go for Linens in the Spring and Summer
Just because it’s short-sleeved doesn’t mean it’ll keep you cool on the hottest days. Linen shirts in light colors are a staple in summer menswear. You can wear them casually with shorts or with linen slacks and a blazer for those August boat parties.
Other good warm-season fabrics include bamboo and silk blends. Aesthetically, silk isn’t for everyone, as it has a bit of an aloha vibe. Linen, however, is universal. It has that off-duty Bond look about it.
If you dig a bit, you’ll find some rare instances of shirtmakers who add performance materials to their linens.
Mizzen+Main, for example, makes a linen collared top called the Palmer Shirt. Its camp collar is more casual, but also more summer-appropriate than the average collared shirt.
I’m mainly highlighting this design because, like their polyester dress shirts, they infuse the construction with spandex for extra stretch. Even more, they add viscose, which is a semi-natural material made from wood pulp. It makes the shirt more breathable, absorbent, and slightly more sustainable.
I’m impressed that a brand could take linen, a pretty perfect material to begin with, and find ways to make it even better.
Style It Intentionally—Starting with a Watch
Honestly, once you’ve checked all of the boxes thus far, you’ll look good no matter what you do with your shirt beyond that. Just don’t pair it with tuxedo separates or ill-fitting athletic wear.
A good short-sleeve dress shirt with jeans and sneakers? Perfection. Perhaps slacks and loafers. Also flawless.
However, if you add some intentionality to the combination, you can further optimize an already locked-down look. The first thing I recommend is to always wear a watch. Your wrist is in full view, and nothing makes a guy instantly look more like a well-adjusted adult than a good wristwatch.
Next, consider where you’re going and the most appropriate way to wear your shirt in that context. If you’re going to a high-end beach club, you might want to tuck your shirt into some dress shorts and finish it off with loafers or boat shoes. This way, you look casual, elegant, and appropriately nautical.
If you’re going to the beach or even a pool party, you might consider an open-dress shirt with a tee or tank underneath.
Go for brighter shades in the summer and lighter shades in the spring. Perhaps in spring, you go for pastels, mint green, or just a simple sky blue. In the summer, you can go for yellow, stark whites, or even burnt orange.
And yes, you can wear dress shoes with your short-sleeve dress shirt.
A pair of brown leather Oxfords look excellent with casual clothes. A dress shirt, chinos, and leather dress shoes are an effective combination for any weekend activity in which you want to look relaxed but still put together. A company picnic or a date are two examples.
Have Fun With Patterns and Colors
And finally, short-sleeve dress shirts are an opportunity to do something a bit more exciting than your average whites and blues—though whites and blues are never a bad way to go.
Going for a lively pattern or less conventional hue can be intimidating on a proper long-sleeve dress shirt. However, since a short-sleeve shirt is inherently more casual, it’s also inherently less bound to traditional colors and patterns.
Mizzen+Main’s Halyard Short Sleeve in the Poseidon Stitch colorway is a clever design because the x motif adds dimension and character. However, it’s incorporated so seamlessly, that it just looks like a more interesting vertical stripe design.
Or, if you want to experiment with graphics, try something in understated or muted tones. The White Tidal Pool Leward, for example, effectively uses color, sticking to different tones of dusty blues with just small pops of red to ensure it doesn’t look washed out.
Conclusion
Remember, as long as you pick a shirt that fits well and lets you move comfortably, most things will fall into place.
Fortunately, if you stick to the right brands, you can find both of these qualities in a variety of styles—and that’s the fun part.
The supreme comfort and wearability of Mizzen+Main's performance menswear will win over plenty of guys in search of the ultimate premium staples that you can actually move around in.
