A mere gander reveals that western wear lies at the core of men’s fashion in 2024 and into 2025.
Pharrell Williams has the look by its horns in Louis Vuitton’s FW24 collection.
Jacques Marie Mage tries their hand at frontier visuals with bronco and thunderbird motifs embellished with turquoise stones.
And while luxury brands seek to capitalize on the trend, true heritage labels in the space such as Lucchese, Levi’s, and Stetson have stood firm as a fence post through the trend cycles—some of which have since the dawn of the steam engine.
Western fashion experiences a surge in popularity every decade, but it remains an enduring style in menswear. Unlike city dwellers who constantly chase new trends, it’s the everyday way of dressing for many areas west of the Mississippi.
Some rely on the ruggedized fabrics that evolved alongside the ranchers who popularized western garments. Others appreciate the way high-waisted denim and cropped jackets compliment the male figure.
Some consider western wear to be the only “true” fashion export of the United States. The influence of Mexican, Native American, and European settler culture makes the genre uniquely rich in history and appearance. Ultimately, there just aren’t that many styles that mix tradition, aesthetics, and function the way western wear does, and that’s why it isn’t going anywhere.
Remove the luxury brands cashing in the action and the legacy labels who’ve defined it. Who’s blazing new trails in western fashion with their unique vision?
If you’re looking to corral some western excellence into your wardrobe, I’m set in my boots that these five brands are it.
Tecovas
Whether you’ve seen their latest TV spot during Sunday Night Football, Glen Powell’s favorite trucker hat featuring their iconic logo, or stumbled into one of their masterfully-designed flagships in cowboy capitols such as Dallas, Denver, or Oklahoma City, it’s clear that Tecovas has little competition in modern western wear notoriety.
With such a refined brand culture surrounding the Austin-based boot, denim, and leather purveyor, you’d think they’ve been outfitting the masses since the Dust Bowl at least. They haven’t even turned ten.
Why does Tecovas top my list? A couple of reasons.
First, many bootmakers in the space don’t put much thought into their apparel assortment. Oftentimes, it’s merely a souvenir-esque afterthought of screen-printed tees and beer koozies. Tecovas’ garments are intentional, high quality, and most importantly, relevant to western wear.
My Shawl Collar Wrap Sweater is an absolute grail of mine. For such an iconic silhouette, I can’t seem to find anybody else trying their hand at it. With a flattering cut, 100% Merino wool fabric, and an unmistakable frontier charm, it exemplifies their approach to crafting premium Western goods of all kinds.
I spoiled reason #2, but their boot game is really what drew me to them in the first place—particularly the value they possess.
The price ceiling for a pair of cowboy boots makes luxury designer footwear seem like small peanuts. A cool $10k could get you a pair of custom-fitted boots featuring a custom design up the boot shaft from one of Texas’ finest artisans. Or you could cough up $150 for a low-end pair whose sole would split before the ‘leather’ molded to your feet.
And then there’s Tecovas’ boots. Select pairs hang around the $2k neighborhood, but most will run you between $300 to $500. I’ve owned pairs from the likes of Dan Post, Lucchese, and Frye, but none of them were as bang-for-your-buck as my pair of Cartwright boots.
Supple cowhide leather, a Goodyear welt, and a perfect fit for less than $400? Sounds like my kind of rodeo.
Imogene + Willie
It all started with two models of denim, one for the maidens and one for the cowboys.
Since their founding in 2009, Imogene + Willie has grown into a cult favorite for western wear that is both casual and elevated. The brand operates two retail locations in the two capitals of frontier style: Austin and Nashville.
Their denim is true to western sensibilities—heavy, durable, with a fit relaxed enough to drape nicely over a boot’s shaft. Imogene + Willie also presents a wide range of knits, jackets, accessories, and goods for the home with a rustic edge. And the best part? All of it is made right here in the USA.
For a more literal display of cattle country visuals, Imogene + Willie has a killer assortment of graphic tees. If their collaboration with the “future of bluegrass,” Billy Strings, doesn’t tell you anything about their pistol-spinning prestige, I’m not sure what else will.
American Hat Makers
For over half a century, American Hat Makers has set the standard for premium western hats, blending traditional craftsmanship for the modern western wear enthusiast.
Known for their meticulous attention to detail, their hats range from rugged leather cowboy styles to breathable straw designs—all handmade in their Watsonville headquarters.
American Hat Makers’ dedication to top-tier materials and thoughtful design makes them a go-to for western wear enthusiasts (and it’s precisely why I’m so fond of them). If you’re serious about your hat game, this is the first place I’d put your sights over.
Wythe
I recently included Wythe’s Bedford Cord Ranch Jacket in a roundup of what’s lassoed my attention this August. Zooming out, the brand as a whole is in my top five for 2024—both for the story and product.
Founder Peter Middleton’s story is an underdog story in its own right. Wythe was met with bountiful acclaim for its nostalgic interpretation of western wear until a modern-day dust bowl knocked him off his horse.
Founded in January of 2020, the Coronavirus pandemic came trotting into town two months later. The next year, Hurricane Ida sent knee-high swells into their New Jersey warehouse, rendering their entire 2021 collection unsellable.
It’s 2024 and Wythe is arguably the hottest thing in western wear.
Their goodyear-welted calfskin cowboy boots are handmade in Leon, Mexico. The Raglan Wool Overcoat’s fabric is hand-spun in Ireland and sewn together in NYC. As far as quality goes, Wythe wears a big hat with the cattle to prove it.
Dunrite Leatherworks
Cowboy hats are the symbol of western fashion. Some might argue cowboy boots are. I’d say the pearl-snap denim shirt has a winning chance, too.
Guillermo Cuevas, founder of Dunrite Leatherworks, sinks his craftsmanship into boots and leather accessories, but his belts are the real showstoppers. And not always the ones fastened by a Texas-sized buckle.
You’ll notice that Dunrite’s online shop is modest in its offerings. That’s because the artisanal outfitter is primarily a made-to-order business.
Based on the customer’s vision, Guillermo adorns a leather with studs, jewels, and ‘fixins,’ culminating in a truly one-of-a-kind belt.
His style is a throwback to the pageantry of country artists of the 50s and 60s—think Elvis Presley’s sequined jumpsuits or “the man who made country sparkle,” Nudie Cohn.
If you’re just now wetting your beak with cowboy apparel, a standard western-buckle belt will do the trick just fine. For something truly delightful and undeniably personal, aim your sights over Dunrite.
Left Field NYC
The second NYC representative on this list, Left Field champions American-made goods and “the way things used to be done.”
I was first introduced to the brand by Drew Joiner, one of the most insightful menswear bloggers today. Left Field’s only location is located in Queens, a retail frontier in the grand scheme of New York. Upon first visit, the space struck me as an exhibit of the Wild West more than it did a sales floor.
Left Field is another brand that prioritizes quality in place of a wide assortment. Take their Chelsea Vidalia Mills 14 oz Indigo Selvedge jeans, for example. They’re made from heavy-duty, 100% American-grown cotton woven by one of the most revered cotton mills in the US, Vidalia Mills.
I can’t talk about Left Field in the context of western wear without calling out the Rodeo Denim Western Leisure Jacket—the finest example of bonafide cowboy swagger.
14 oz yard-dyed denim, rayon lining, custom copper buttons—all made in the US of A. Once every other culture-vulture brand gets a whiff of this piece, expect to see it everywhere.
Ginew
Blending Ojibwe, Oneida and Stockbridge-Munsee design, Ginew stands tall as one of the leading native-owned brands contributing to the modern western wear movement, and the only one specializing in denim.
Like others on this list, backyard talent sparks their craft into existence.
Their Raven Denim Jean “draws inspiration from traditional Tlingit formline designs, historic artifacts, spruce root basket weaving patterns,” resulting in a geometric pattern on the rear-right pocket. Alaskan artist J. Younger designed the raven stamped to the leather patch affixed to the Japanese Kurabo denim.
There aren’t many brands out there infusing this degree of spirit and cultural pride as Ginew, so suffice it to say, I saved best for last. Their deep respect for tradition and craftsmanship makes them a cornerstone of authentic Western wear and can be felt in every thread, stitch, and crease.
With all of the hype around western wear, you’d think that I’d be able to come up with more than five brands.
It’s one thing to be trendy. Doing something with quality, integrity, and respect for everything that came before is a whole other ball game. This list of brands exemplify those values.
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